Debbie and Brooke Do Dallas

 

In front of my 8th Presidential Library- George W. Bush!

 

In true mama daughter tradition, we hopped on a plane in January 2016 for a long weekend and headed south to the Big D…Dallas, Texas! Dallas is the whole (Heidecorn) girls trip package- good food, good history and good shopping! You do not need to rent a car while visiting Dallas. Just use Uber!

Accommodations

We decided to be super chic and stay at The Joule. The location is perfect as a jumping off point to get to most destinations in the city. We found the rooms to be spacious and stylish however fashion was sometimes put before function as light switches were hard to find and electronics in the room were not intuitive to use. The hotel boasts a fabulous art collection worthy of a viewing. Across the street from the hotel is Dallas’ strangest and most voyeuristic art sculpture, The Giant Eye, which stares at you longingly while you enjoy breakfast at their in-hotel restaurant, CBD Provision. After snapping a photo with the sculpture, head next door If you want some high end shopping at Forty Five Ten.

Food

Filament– The restaurant has since closed (which is a bummer because it was our favorite meal) but I wanted to include it on the blog because it’s located in a great neighborhood with other noteworthy restaurants. Check out this list to find out where to eat in Deep Ellum.

Veracruz Cafe– While walking around the Bishop Art District we stumbled upon Veracruz and we had a most delicious meal. Traditional Mexican and Meso-American cuisine hit the spot for lunch! After lunch, we wandered the district that we heard had great shopping and art but, truthfully, we were underwhelmed.

Smoke– It’s in a random location and for some reason, the place was empty when we ate there. It was pretty good but we weren’t blown away. I’d eat at Knife, Top Chef alum John Tesar’s steakhouse, instead.

The Theodore– Our flight to New York got canceled so we got an extra night in Dallas. We decided to head to the infamous NorthPark Center to have dinner. The Theodore turned out to be delicious and I would highly recommend!

Things to Do

 

If it’s a beautiful day and you have some time to spare check out Klyde Warren Park. Think of it as Dallas’ version of NYC’s Highline.

 

Arts District Architecture Tour– This is the tour we had booked in advance and I’m happy we didn’t miss it! Our docent was fabulous and she pointed out the architecture that we surely would have missed if we had been rambling around the neighborhood. She also told us how the neighborhood was designated for the arts has transformed as the city blossomed.

George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum– Honestly, it was very strange to visit

Father, Son. Mother, Daughter.

my EIGHTH presidential library on Trump’s Inauguration Day. The museum wasn’t afraid to showcase uncomfortable moments during his presidency, such as the attacks of September 11th, nor did it sugarcoat some of his missteps, like those during Hurricane Katrina, and in doing so, I found the museum to have a lot of integrity. In fact, I believe it paid tribute to Bush in a way that allowed for me to respect him more than I previously had. I also found the museum to give insight into Bush as a person and First Lady Laura Bush’s education initiatives which were often overshadowed during his presidency. We enjoyed a yummy, albeit it pricey lunch, at the restaurant Cafe 43 since the museum is located on the SMU campus without many food options.

 

 

Ready to be sworn in. A replica of the Oval Office when Bush was in office is in the museum and it makes for a great photo op!

 

Nasher Sculpture Center– A spectacular museum of Raymond and Patsy Nasher’s private collection. The building is very manageable but the highlight is the sculpture garden out back which is filled with Picassos, Calders, and Serras, to name a few. Do not miss this museum and plan to spend some quality time.

The Sixth Floor Museum– Book your tickets ahead of time for this sobering museum which is located inside the former Texas School Book Depository and chronicles the assassination of President Kennedy. I highly recommend getting the audio guide. The museum does an excellent job giving you the history leading up to the assassination and what occurred afterward as well. You can even get a first-person point of view where assassin Lee Harvey Oswald shot from. After leaving the museum, walk along Dealey Plaza to see the “X” where Kennedy was shot and stand on the Grassy Knoll. You can walk about 5 minutes from the museum to the JFK Memorial.

Dallas Holocaust Museum– Though small, this museum was impactful and impressive. It didn’t take us long to wind our way through the exhibits but we were glad to support an important museum devoted to the victims of the Holocaust and the survivors that made their way to the Dallas area.

Perot Museum of Science and Nature– With our extra day in Dallas we decided to head over to this spectacular museum. It’s large and new, and although it caters to children we still had a great time checking out the exhibits on the solar system and prehistoric animals.

NorthPark Center– Truthfully, it’s not just a mall. Developed by Raymond Nasher (see Sculpture Center above) the mall was ahead of its time when it was built in 1965. While the shopping is great, the art collection is even better!

All in all, I would highly recommend Dallas as a long weekend getaway. My mom and I had a great time exploring and eating in true Big D fashion!

Southern Charm Part 2

After 3 days in Charleston, we jumped in the car and drove the 90 minutes from the Palmetto state to the Peach State. We began our time in Georgia in Savannah, a city I have been itching to visit for a long time. Generally, Savannah lived up to expectations, especially in the beauty department with the Spanish Moss practically dripping off the oaks. However, two days was plenty of time in the city since there’s not a ton of attractions and the food options didn’t wow us. Savannah is considered one of the most haunted cities in America and Brian begrudgingly missed out on a ghost tour because his girlfriend was admittedly too scared. Add a ghost tour onto my list below if you won’t have nightmares like I would. Here’s the skinny on our non-frightening time in Savannah:

Accomodations

The Brice: This recently opened Kimpton hotel was a 180 from our historic hotel in

Happy hour at The Brice

Charleston. We loved the decor and the good location but we were underwhelmed with the housekeeping and the lack of concierge help. The best part about staying at a Kimpton is the 5pm complimentary happy hour and, if the weather had been better, we would have loved to drink our wine in the inner courtyard. Bring a bathing suit for warm weather and enjoy your stay! http://www.bricehotel.com/

Food

The Olde Pink House: One of Savannah’s most famous and haunted establishments was a must do during our stay. The staff was very knowledgeable about the history of the house and the ghosts that still loom in the different rooms. Brian ate their signature crispy scoured flounder and the “BLT” salad which was featured on Food Network’s The Best Thing I Ever ate. He thought they were both very good although maybe did not live up to those superlatives. My shrimp and grits were delicious! Reservations can be hard to get but you can eat at the tavern downstairs, featuring a nightly piano player, or the side bar without planning ahead. You also have access to roam around the entire house after your meal. http://www.plantersinnsavannah.com/the-olde-pink-house/

The Olde Pink House is really pink!

J. Christophers: A good brunch joint that had a lot of omelette options. No reservations necessary and right in the middle of the city. http://www.jchristophers.com/

The Florence: As devoted Top Chef fans, I wanted us to try Hugh Acheson’s new digs in Savannah. I knew I’d have a hard time because it’s an Italian restaurant, but we were both underwhelmed with our meal. Brian liked his entree of cider glazed pork ribs, but the meatball starter was blah and his cannoli dessert, which the waitress claimed was her favorite, was so bad, with filling bordering on sour (like it had been sitting out for a couple hours), that it’s the only cannoli Brian has ever not finished. Our only disappointing meal of the trip. http://theflorencesavannah.com/

Back in the Day Bakery: Off the beaten track bakery that our friends from Atlanta told us we couldn’t leave Savannah without visiting. We got the last Star Brownie only 2 hours after the bakery opened, so go first thing in the morning to try every option on the menu. http://www.backinthedaybakery.com/

Savannah Dan

What to Do

Savannah Dan: If there’s anyone who embodies Savannah, it’s this tall man in a seersucker suit. He was hysterical and knowledgeable all at the same time. Dan took us through 6 of the 24 squares that are laid out proportionally throughout the city. He provided us with fun facts like that Georgia was originally a free state without any slavery and he pointed out that bench where Forrest Gump intoned that “Life is like a box of chocolates…” doesn’t even exist. There are so many tours to choose from but this is the one to go on! http://www.savannahdan.com/

We made it to all 24 squares!

 

 

 

 

Mercer Williams House: I read about half of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt and we watched the Clint Eastwood movie before we left, so we wanted to see the home that was the scene of the murder from the story. The tour was short and the guide highlighted all the amazing antiques that Jim Williams accumulated but we really wanted to hear about the murder and all the parties that he threw there. http://www.mercerhouse.com/

Spanish Moss

Bonaventure Cemetery: It’s a little bit of a drive out of the city and it probably would have been better for us if we had gone on a tour but it was still a spectacular place. We spent time in the Jewish section and then we wove our way through the historic section. Some of the gravestones were so ornate! The setting is beautiful, right on the water, but don’t expect to find the Bird Girl statue from the cover of Midnight; it has a new home in the Telfair Museum of Art. http://www.bonaventurehistorical.org/

From Savannah we drove the long and boring ride 4 hour ride to Atlanta. It was well worth it though because we were thrilled to spend New Year’s with the Friedmans and have them show us around their city.

Georgia Aquarium: Buy your tickets online ahead of time for a discounted price to America’s largest aquarium. This place is huge. We missed the dolphin show but Mike, Dayna, and their 3 year old Blake assured us that it was pretty impressive. It was amazing to see the whale sharks and manta rays because of their size and I loved seeing the Beluga whales. Definitely give yourself plenty of time to check out every exhibit and go either as soon as it’s opening or a couple hours before closing. You should grab lunch at The Varsity, the world’s largest drive-in restaurant and an Atlanta staple for the past 87 years! http://www.georgiaaquarium.org/

Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum: Well it’s really not a complete trip unless we can squeeze some presidential history in. Carter may not be the most interesting president, but his museum was very well done. We enjoyed watching the introductory video and I really appreciated learning about his early life and grassroots campaigning. The most informative exhibit was about the Camp David Accords which is certainly the highlight of his career as president. http://www.jimmycarterlibrary.gov/

 

 

 

 

 

And then we had to board a plane back to chilly NYC. Good times, good food and good friends made for an amazing Southeastern vacation. If this trip is any indication of the upcoming year, then 2015 is going to be wonderful.

Southern Charm Part 1

2014 ended on a high note with a trip down South to Charleston, Savannah and Atlanta. Brian wanted to try all the delicious food in Charleston, I wanted to learn about the history of Savannah and we were delighted to visit our friends Mike and Dayna in Atlanta to ring in the new year. Here’s a little bit about what we ate, explored and learned on the first part of our trip in South Carolina, the Palmetto State…

Accommodations

Francis Marion Hotel: A historic hotel centrally located on King Street- which is essentially the main drag of Charleston. Quite honestly I got a great deal on the price and it served its purpose- a jumping off point to see all the sights. It felt old but they were going through some renovations. http://www.francismarionhotel.com/

Food

Husk: A highlight of the trip and one of the main reasons we traveled to Charleston. Brian

My delicious Amberjack entree at Husk

went a little heavy on the pork but between my clam appetizer and amberjack main course, it was one of the best meals I had all year. The service was exemplary and the restaurant was beautiful. If you go to Charleston, this meal is a must and book it in advance! http://www.huskrestaurant.com/home/

Pearlz Oyster Bar: We wanted local seafood and local seafood we got. After walking all morning, we walked into Pearlz when the doors opened at 2pm and enjoyed large oysters from the Lowcountry. Hit the spot! http://www.pearlzoysterbar.com/

Pearlz Oyster Bar

Hominy Grill

F.I.G. (Food Is Good): A truly delicious meal that was perfectly cooked. I’ll quote Brian when he said that it was “the best gnocchi [he’s] ever had!” Lots of farm to table options that satiated our appetite from start to finish such as a chicken liver pate that knocked my socks off! http://eatatfig.com/

Hominy Grill: We walked completely off the beaten path and then waited 45 minutes for this southern brunch gem. From Brian’s Charleston Nasty Biscuit to my gluten free pancakes, this was the meal we were craving all trip long. While you wait, you can order hot and cold drinks from a take out window which is a nice treat. http://hominygrill.com/

The Macintosh: The burgers were rated some of the best in the city and we were glad to

Even this sometimes picky eater devoured it!

travel to upper King Street so that Brian could proclaim the best burger for $15 that he’s ever eaten (there were a lot of superlatives on the trip). We decided to be adventurous in our appetizer choice and went with an inventive charcuterie plate that included a grouper bologna. Jeni’s ice cream is right next door and, if you can stay up later than me, head upstairs to the bar, The Cocktail Club. http://themacintoshcharleston.com/

What to Do

Two Sisters Walking Tour: Mary Helen was amazing and walked us in and out of the historic streets of the Holy City. The city got its nickname because of the prominence of church steeples that rise above the low skyline. We learned about the beginning of the settlement, originally Charles Town, and its devastation after 587 days of attack during the Civil War. In the wake of, what the locals call, the War Between the States, Charleston rebuilt and they put strict architectural preservation laws in place. The informative and interesting tour took about 2 hours and we got to see Rainbow Row, the Battery and important sights like St. Michael’s Church. http://www.twosisterstours.com/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim: We went on a nice tour of America’s oldest continuously used synagogue. Established as a Sephardic Orthodox congregation in 1749, the Reform movement took root in 1843 and despite wars and hurricanes, the congregation survives

Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim

and grows to this day. It was nice for us to go to a Jewish house of worship of such historical significance. http://www.kkbe.org/

Fort Sumter: Make sure to buy tickets ahead of time for the ferry to Fort Sumter, birthplace of the Civil War. Round-trip it’ll take you about 2 hours and 15 minutes and that includes an hour on the actual fort. The ferry includes an audio recording of the history of the fort and highlights how about 100 Union soldiers on April 12, 1861 did their best to hold the fort in the Charleston harbor but ultimately surrendered to the Confederates, starting the Civil War. It’s a significant and unique part of our country’s history and the ferry ride back with the sunset and dolphins was the cherry on top! http://www.nps.gov/fosu/index.htm

Fort Sumter

Fort Sumter

 

 

 

 

 

Magnolia Plantation: Just 25 minutes north of Charleston is the historic Magnolia Plantation. Unfortunately we had a rainy day to visit the Plantation so we didn’t get to view the renowned gardens. The house tour was good and helped us better understand the Draytons, the family that owns the land, and if we had had a nicer day we would have spent more time in the gardens and exploring the slave quarters to learn more about the less discussed side of plantations. Make sure to check the website before you go to print out coupons for the various tours. http://www.magnoliaplantation.com/

 

What we didn’t get to see includes the Nathaniel Russell House and Halsey Institute. It also would be fun to take a trip out to the nearby islands to enjoy the beaches and outdoor adventures like kayaking and swamp boating at Cypress Gardens among the alligators. I would suggest skipping the City Market which is really just a crowded, overpriced flea market.

Ferry to Fort Sumter

Add Charleston to your list of must visit cities for many reasons but let me stress how wonderful the food was, how beautiful the city is and how much we enjoyed learning about the history of the Holy City. We’re so glad to have spent 3 days in Charleston and next time when we visit it’ll be in the warmer months to take advantage of all the Lowcountry has to offer. Part two takes us to Georgia, where we walked among the Spanish Moss of Savannah and drove around the urban sprawl of Atlanta to ring in the New Year!

Meet Me at the Met

As a New Yorker, it can be easy to take the Metropolitan Museum of Art for granted (http://www.metmuseum.org/). Not only is it the largest art museum in the country, it is also the third most visited museum in the world with a collection of over two million works. When Howard invited Brian and I to join him on a Meet the Met tour through the company Walks of New York, I was a bit skeptical that we’d be able to see the majority of the museum in just 3 hours. Simona, our guide, impressed me with the breadth of her knowledge. I’ve probably visited the Met over 20 times and she was easily able to teach us new facts about famous pieces while showing us galleries in the Met that I never knew existed.

The rooftop is open for another 2 weeks! Corey, Howard, Brian and I had the pleasure of enjoying Central Park from the top of the Met with a glass of wine in hand.

We learned so much along the way but here are some of my favorite facts:

• The Temple of Dendur is not actually Egyptian. It was in fact built for Augustus who
  

  Temple of Dendur

  systematically worked his way to become both the first Emperor of Rome and a Pharaoh of Egypt.

• In the center of the renovated American Wing stands Diana, one of my favorite pieces. It was originally a wind vane on Madison Square Garden. The sculpture was designed by Augustus Saint-Gaudens and the building by Stanford White. Her naked body caused much scandal in addition to the rumors that her face was modeled after actress Evelyn Nesbitt, White’s mistress. While the rumors were false, Nesbitt’s relationship with White was the impetus of his murder by Nesbitt’s husband, multi-millionaire Harry Kendall Thaw, which is immortalized as the Trial of the Century, in Doctorow’s Ragtime.
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  Diana in the American Wing

  

  Roman copy on the left in marble and Grecian bronze on right

We learned the difference between a Roman statue and a copy of a Grecian statue by a Roman artist. If you see a marble statue with a tree trunk attached to the leg of the human being portrayed you’ll know that it is a marble copy of what was originally a Greek bronze statue. Because marble is heavier than bronze the sculptor would need to add another pillar, such as the tree, to support the additional weight and keep it in the upright position.

• Michael Rockefeller’s collection of Asmat Bis Poles in the Oceania gallery is not to be missed. The poles hail from the Asmat tribe of New Guinea and they are a symbol of the tribe’s mythology and belief system devoted to trees. After trading for the poles, Michael Rockefeller went missing soon after leaving the island, as his boat capsized and he decided to swim back to shore instead of waiting for help. There is some speculation that he may have been the victim of cannibalism.
• It’s really all about Madame X. Do you know that John Singer Sargent originally painted the portrait with one of her straps down? It was met with revulsion, being seen as improper, and Sargent kept the painting in his studio for 25 years, editing the shoulder strap at some point, before the Met acquired it.
  

  Painting at the Met on the left. Photo of original on the right.

Check out the photos below to see just how much ground we were able to cover. Howard bought a Groupon but you can visit https://www.walksofnewyork.com/ to find out other tours that interest you. If you want to venture to northern Manhattan to check out the best Medieval Art that the Met owns, check out my blog post about the Cloisters: https://theprimarysource1.wordpress.com/2014/08/25/closer-to-the-cloisters/

Is there anyone better than Claude Monet at manipulating light? I think not. The House of Parliament (Effect of Fog) proves that he is the impressionist with the greatest command over the brushstroke. The photograph doesn’t do the painting justice. Go see it for yourself.

Corey, Howard and Brian standing guard with the Armor of Henry II of France in the Arms and Armor gallery.

Wall Paintings from a Cubiculum Nocturnum: These frescoes were found on the island of Pompeii after the ash was removed from the eruption of Vesuvius. They were in excellent condition and the vibrant colors withstood the volcanic eruption.

Flashback Friday: Hudson, New York

In honor of the past long weekend, I wanted my Flashback Friday post to feature one of my favorite local getaway destinations, the Hudson River Valley. The region stretches 150 miles along the Hudson River from Yonkers in Westchester north to Albany. There are so many wonderful places to visit along the river but this post will focus on the weekend Brian and I spent in the area around Hudson, New York which is about a 2 hour drive from the city. http://www.travelhudsonvalley.com/

View of the Hudson River from Olana

Settled by the Dutch in the mid-seventeenth century and named after the explorer, the city of Hudson flourished with the whaling industry. As you walk through the streets you’ll notice whales on the street signs as a tribute to the whalers that spurred a thriving manufacturing and shipping community. Although the 1960’s marked the beginning of a decline in the city leaving behind abandoned buildings, recently Hudson is making a comeback as an arts and food destination.

Sleep:

We were so lucky to find such a wonderful bed and breakfast. Windle, the owner of the Inn at Hudson, met us at 11pm to let us into the B&B because we were running late and even walked over to Fish and Game, the restaurant we were supposed to dine at, and changed our reservation for us. The owners were welcoming and they served a delicious breakfast both mornings with gluten free modifications. Even though check out was at noon they allowed us to stay in the room until our dinner reservations at 5pm on Sunday. http://www.theinnathudson.com/index.html

Eat:

Our first night in Hudson we walked from the Inn to Warren Street, the main shopping road and center of the city, to enjoy dinner at Swoon. The restaurant had a fun vibe and we enjoyed the cheese plate from local farms. Overall, the food was tasty and it was a great choice for our first night in town. http://www.swoonkitchenbar.com/

The interior of Fish and Game

We initially chose to visit Hudson because of the Tasting Table article that stated “Fish and Game…could do for the Hudson Valley what French Laundry did for Napa Valley”. How could we resist trying Zak Pelaccio prix fixe, set menu? While overall the food was very good, it certainly seems to have a long way to go to earn that reputation. The dishes highlighted locally sourced ingredients and were very inventive, but there was a lack of cohesion and some odd choices in plating detracted from a couple courses.The decor of the restaurant is inviting and warm, while the front of house staff was very nice and helpful in changing our reservation. The service is excellent as the restaurant staggers the seating so that all diners get personal attention, however the kitchen was unable to accommodate my gluten allergy beyond omitting any wheat products. If you’re in Hudson, definitely try to get a reservation or at least a drink at the bar and decide if it lives up to Tasting Table expectations. http://fishandgamehudson.com/

http://www.tastingtable.com/entry_detail/nyc/14589/Zak_Pelaccios_Fish_Game_in_Hudson.htm

http://www.gq.com/blogs/the-feed/2014/01/alan-richman-fish-game-hudson-new-york-review.html

Do:

FDR’s home

A trip to the Hudson Valley is not complete without a visit to President Franklin Roosevelt’s home, museum and library. This was my second time to Hyde Park and in the last few years they’ve renovated the museum. Be prepared to spend a lot of valuable time wandering through Roosevelt’s four terms in the museum and library. Your ticket also includes a free one hour ranger led tour through Roosevelt’s childhood home. If you have time, you can drive to Val-Kill, Eleanor’s cottage which is also the only National Historic Site dedicated to a first lady. http://www.fdrlibrary.marist.edu/

We drove by the Vanderbilt Mansion but arrived too late to take a guided tour of this gigantic home. Next time, I’d love to see the inside of the home. http://www.nps.gov/vama/index.htm

Just a small Vanderbilt home

Another historic home for this trip, Olana!

Olana is about a 10 minute drive from downtown Hudson and it was the home of Frederic Church, prominent Hudson School painter. The guided tour was informative and the docent explained the very unusual historic home. We enjoyed learning about Church and the Moorish inspired home, as well as the breathtaking view of the river below the property. http://www.olana.org/

It’s been a long time since I’ve had vodka so it was a treat to drive to the town of Valatie and check out Harvest Spirits’ Distillery. They use apples to distill their vodka and we enjoyed a tasting. The guys were happy to explain the process and some of the new products they are working on for next season (including a whiskey). On the way to Valatie, we stopped at Kinderhook for a look at President Martin van Buren’s home, Lindenwald. Unfortunately, the home is only open from May-November so we could not take the tour inside the home. We enjoyed walking around the property and reading information about Van Buren’s presidency. http://www.harvestspirits.com/ and http://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/presidents/van_buren_lindenwald.html

Lindenwald

The barrels at Harvest Spirits Distillery

 

 

 

 

 

Stay tuned for other posts about day trips we’ve taken to the Hudson Valley such as Storm King and West Point!

 

Lost and Found in Central Park

I finally convinced Jaclyn to visit the Big Apple from the City of Brotherly Love. Because Jaclyn has spent limited time in the city I thought it would be fun to take a free tour of Central Park offered by the Central Park Conservancy. http://www.centralparknyc.org/tours/guided-tours/ There are so many options to choose from but based on our date and time we opted for the North Woods tour. Central Park is one of my favorite places in NYC but I have spent little time north of 96th. We were delighted to spend 75 minutes in the wilderness in the middle of Manhattan. Here’s what we learned that you’ll love to know:

Harlem Meer, looking south from the Dana Center. Meer is the Dutch word for pond.

– The tour began at the Dana Discovery Center inside the park at 110th street between 5th and Lenox Avenues. Arrive about 20 minutes early and go inside the center to sign up for the tour and check out the exhibit, Ponds, Pipes and People: Water in Central Park. It was informative and introduced us to some of the sights we would see along the tour.

– Sarah Miller, Central Park’s historian, has been known to say that Central Park was America’s first theme park and the theme is nature. The Park is completely man made and designed by Olmsted and Vaux. It’s northern border was originally at 106th street but the area where the  Harlem Meer currently sits was marshland and considered unsuitable for building so the plans were changed to include the marsh and pushed the border to 110th Street.

North Woods starts at Huddlestone Arch. The arch has no mortar and was created by stacking the boulders upon each other and allowing gravity and a keystone do all the work.

– The plants are generally not native to New York nor the Northeast. Olmsted and Vaux cared more that they were beautiful rather than native.

Jaclyn inside Huddlestone Arch

– The North Woods is one of three woodlands in the Park, the other two being The Ramble (in the midwest section of the park) and Hallett Nature Sanctuary (the southeast corner of the park). You can distinguish these areas from the rest of the park because you truly feel transported from the metropolis of NYC to upstate New York. Other sections of the Park, like the Great Lawn, would be considered pastoral in comparison to the woodlands.

– There are 36 unique bridges and arches in Central Park. They are all functional but also aesthetically pleasing. Olmsted’s goal was to use them as picture frames that lure the walker to see what is beyond. They also serve as portals between environs.

Waterfalls can be found throughout the North Woods. They act as a natural sound barrier to the melodies of the city. They also attract birds to the park by letting them know that there is a water source in the area.

– Olmsted and Vaux hated the grid system of New York City streets that many of us natives love. They designed the Park with as minimal lines as possible so as to allow patrons to amble, slow down and enjoy the scenery. They wanted to contrast the busy, business obsessed streets to the relaxing, curving paths of the Park.

– Did you know there was more gunpowder used to construct Central Park than in the Battle of Gettysburg? Our guide, Alan, was exceedingly knowledgeable and provided us with tons of fun facts.

– The land for Central Park cost 5 million dollars and the city used eminent domain to stake claim to the property. The original budget was just over $1 million but when everything was said and done it took $17 million to construct the park. The annual budget to maintain the park is $58 million and the Conservancy has raised over $700 million since its inception in 1980. Although some of the tours are free, consider becoming a member to the Conservancy. Your donation goes directly towards maintaining the beauty of Central Park.

The most amazing tip I learned will leave all my New York friends speechless. Have you ever been walking through the park and had no idea what cross street you are closest to? It happens to me all the time and I have to try to figure out where I am by staring at the buildings. Next time you get lost take a look at the lamp posts and you’ll notice rectangular metal placards. The first two numbers tell you the closest cross street and if the last number is odd you’re closer to the west side; if it’s even you’re closer to east side. So this lamp post is telling us that we are closest to 102nd street on the west side. Who knew?!

It was a hot day in the city but we absolutely loved learning about the intricacies of Central Park. I highly recommend taking a tour and I plan on taking many many more!

We dined at Pearl and Ash, http://www.pearlandash.com/, for dinner the night before. It was fabulous!! I highly recommend.

A Day in the Forgotten Borough

Thanks to Russell and Kate, my dream to explore Staten Island was finalized realized. The day began with a beautiful, efficient and free (yes, free!) trip on the Staten Island ferry. After only 20 minutes on the ship with views of the Freedom Tower and Lady Liberty herself, we had docked at St. George’s port.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We drove directly to Snug’s Harbor, a landscaped enclave, that was originally built as a haven for retired sailors in the early 19th century. Although the retreat fell into disrepair and some buildings were demolished, the Landmarks Commission was able to step up and save many of the original buildings which makes you feel like you’ve been transported back in time. Snug’s Harbor has a children’s museum and other cultural institutions but we chose to spend our time in the Chinese Scholars Garden. It is a $5 fee but well worth it. Remember to read the plaques outside the garden which will give you clues and tell you about the secrets hidden inside. We also enjoyed the maze at Connie Gretz’s Secret Garden. http://snug-harbor.org/

While at Snug’s Harbor it’s easy to forget that you are still within New York City. Staten Island was originally established by the Dutch and was called Staaten Eylandt (literally States Island) in honor of the States General which was the Dutch Parliament. Based on its proximity, some wonder why Staten Island is not in New Jersey. A myth, perpetuated by Mayor Bloomberg, says that Captain Christopher Billopp declared that if he could circumnavigate the island in one day then it would belong to New York. However, Staten Island was settled by the Dutch and granted to the English in 1673 as a part of the Treaty of Breda which gave England claim to the land and subsequently renamed the colony New York. So it was and likely will always be part of the Empire State. The island played a significant role in the Revolutionary War as a loyalist stronghold and it was eventually consolidated as a borough of the Greater City of New York in 1898.

Here’s what we did after Snug’s Harbor:

– Pizza at DeNino’s (http://www.deninos.com/) According to the gluten full group it was delcious! What’s a trip to SI without pizza? 

– Creme Ice across the street at Ralph’s (http://www.ralphsices.com/) Cheap and definitely a first for me. I think I prefer regular ice cream but really I can’t complain because it was cold and yummy!

 

 

 

– Beer at Flagship Brewery (http://theflagshipbrewery.com/) Right next to the ferry and they had a spacious tap room. Gotta love their slogan: Unforgettable beer brewed in the forgotten borough!

– September 11th Memorial (http://www.visitstatenisland.com/just-off-the-ferry/esplanade-postcards-september-11th-memorial/) Impactful. While you stand within the memorial you look directly at the World Trade Center sights and you are surrounded by the profiles of Staten Island residents that lost their lives on September 11, 2001. 

 

 

– Staten Island Yankees Game (http://www.milb.com/index.jsp?sid=t586) Ok they’re not the best baseball players but it’s fun to watch and the view of downtown Manhattan isn’t half bad. The game will be long so be prepared to either leave early or stick it out to the very end. Fireworks on Friday and Saturday evening games in the summer.

Then we jumped back on the free (did I say free?!) ferry. I definitely would love to go back to Staten Island and check out one of these tours to learn more about the history (http://www.visitstatenisland.com/tours/). We were extremely grateful to our wonderful tour guides and I promise not to forget the borough ever again!

“Everybody ought to have a Lower East Side in their life”

After spending the afternoon wandering through the narrow streets of the Lower East Side, it’s hard to dismiss Irving Berlin’s words. The pavement still hums with the struggles and successes of the varied cultures that called this tightly packed neighborhood home. It’s been a continuously changing neighborhood. Due to varied reasons abroad and domestically, immigrants from across the world at different time periods called the Lower East Side Home starting with the Irish, English and German in the early part of the 19th century, then the Eastern Europeans and Italians during the Progressive Era and turn of the 20th Century and finally the Chinese and Dominicans more recently. The neighborhood has physically changed as lawmakers razed slums and elevated trains to make way for parks, tenements rose and fell and natural ponds were filled in to make way for the notorious Five Points which was later demolished as well. To have a Lower East Side in my life would be to appreciate what those pioneers gave to the city of New York, not just the delicious food and festivals, but also the spirit to make this faraway metropolis their home.

My takeaway: look for clues of the LES’s layered immigrant history in sneaky and exciting ways. Store fronts that still have the outline with Italian last names now run as Chinese businesses or nineteenth century Jewish banks that will soon be converted to a boutique hotel. Makes you wonder, who’s moving in and out next?

The tour was led by Dr. Stephen Petrus who is a postdoc fellow at the Museum of the City of New York (my favorite museum in all the world). He was knowledgeable and friendly and answered all of my questions with a smile. Sponsored by the Young Members Circle, the tour was a complete success and was even topped off with some Katz’s sandwiches. Can’t beat New York City history, a sun shiny June Saturday and pastrami for this gal.

 

Boss Tweed Courthouse. Did you know that the former pinnacle of NYC corruption is now the home of Department of Education?