Hopper Happenings

Frankie and I went to the Edward Hopper House back in May with an interest in the Jordan Matter “Dancers Among Us” exhibit, http://www.edwardhopperhouse.org/. Brian grew up about 10 minutes from the artist’s childhood home in Nyack, New York so we figured it was worth checking the museum out.

Hopper’s childhood bicycle

Hopper’s childhood bedroom. He was clearly inspired by the light that poured into the space.

The museum exceeded expectations. We had two wonderful docents who taught us so much about Edward Hopper. Here are the big take aways:

• Hopper lived in Nyack until he was 28 years old. His early work is inspired by what he saw around him: the Hudson River, the train tracks and his light filled bedroom that we got to visit.
• Hopper sold his first painting at the age of 42. He was a shy, introverted man. It was his wife Josephine who encouraged him to take up watercolors first. She was an artist he met in New England who championed his work in the galleries and as his model. They died less than a year apart from one another.
• House by the Railroad (1925) is modeled after a home in Haverstraw (a town about 15 minutes north of Nyack). It later became the inspiration for Hitchcock’s Bate’s home in the movie Psycho.
• You can visit Hopper’s Greenwich Village apartment, which is now owned by NYU. Contact Amanda Lorencz at 212-998-5900 to schedule an appointment of his studio and apartment overlooking Washington Square Park.

The exhibit we came to see was wonderful as well. The photographs were jaw dropping and there was a terrific video that showed the artist’s process. Essentially Jordan Matter is able to capture dancers in graceful, superhuman poses against the backdrop of city and landscapes. Check out more on his website: http://www.dancersamongus.com/

A site specific photograph of dancers on the front porch of the Hopper House.

My favorite from the exhibit!

Photographs from the exhibition

If you are in the Hudson Valley, stop at the little house in Nyack and enjoy a piece of treasured art history. I meant to post this months ago when the exhibit was still open. It has since closed but keep your eyes peeled for his Jordan Matter’s name in local museums and galleries and make your way to see his work if possible.

A fun day with my future Mother in Law last spring!

Puerto Rico: A Spring Break Getaway

It’s been a long New York winter, as evidenced by the lack of recent blog posts (I promise with warmer weather, I’ll be more diligent!). We needed to escape the cold so we booked a trip to Puerto Rico. We chose PR because it was close, affordable, and had plenty of activities for my can’t sit on a beach for too long boyfriend and his easily sunburnt girlfriend.

The colorful streets of Old San Juan

A little history… Prior to European colonization, the volcanic island was inhabited by the Taino, a native tribe that called the land Boriquen. Christopher Columbus claimed the island for Spain on his second voyage to the New World in 1493. He originally named the island San Juan Bautista, after John the Baptist, and the town Puerto Rico, meaning “rich port”. They did not exchange names until 1521 when San Juan became the capital. Quickly the port became Spain’s most important military outpost as it served as a strategic point between Florida to the north and Mexico to the west. Puerto Rico remained under Spanish rule until 1898. The Treaty of Paris concluded the Spanish-American War and Spain was forced to cede Guam and Puerto Rico to the United States. To understand the relationship Puerto Rico currently has with the U.S. check out this link: http://www.topuertorico.org/government.shtml

Here’s what you need to know before you go:

• It’s a U.S. territory so no passport and no exchange of currency.
• Verizon will not work because there are no Verizon towers! I could not use my data while on the island unless I had a wireless connection. Good thing Brian has T-Mobile!
• Renting a car was a great idea. We had the freedom to get around the majority of the northeast quadrant of island and the roads were easy to drive. Having a car would eliminate steep transportation fees many of the tour companies will make you pay.

Coral Reef while snorkeling

We stayed 3 nights at the Wyndham Grand Rio Mar in Rio Grande  (http://www.wyndhamriomar.com/), about 45 minutes east of the airport. The resort was clean and family friendly, although food options were disappointing, expensive and service lacked. That being said the location was excellent as we could drive to all of our excursions easily and quickly. For the other 2 nights we stayed at an Airbnb (www.airbnb.com), our first experience with the apartment surfing website. We did our research, found an apartment that was located in our desired San Juan neighborhood (Condado), had great reviews and booked it. Our host was easy to communicate with and the apartment was exactly as described! It was a cheaper way to travel and we’ll definitely use Airbnb for vacations in the future.

Puerto Rico has no shortage of delicious food. We celebrated Brian’s birthday at Fern, a

The beautiful entrance to the Plantation House at the St. Regis

Jean Georges restaurant at the St. Regis Bahia Beach (http://www.fernrestaurant.com/bahia-beach-restaurant.php). The food and service were outstanding and they even had gluten free pizza and bread! You should try to get there when the sun is setting so that you can enjoy the ambience of the hotel and landscape. In San Juan we ate dinner at Casa Lola (http://casalolarestaurant.com/), a Roberto Trevino restaurant. They specialize in Puerto Rican cuisine and Brian was delighted to try mofongo, the island’s signature dish made from fried plantains. We also ate at Marmalade (http://www.marmaladepr.com/) in Old San Juan. We opted for the 5 course tasting menu and were not disappointed. In fact it was not only cost effective but everything we ate was delicious and inventive. It was an excellent meal. For breakfast check out the cheap and delicious Pinky’s (http://www.yelp.com/biz/pinkys-condado), and

Lunch at Kamoli with some cafe con leche.

for lunch check out the funky Kamoli Kafe (http://www.yelp.com/biz/kamoli-kafe-and-boutique-san-juan). And if you’re looking for a great artisanal cocktail bar, make your way to Old San Juan and pop into La Factoria (http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-factoria-san-juan). Mario, the bartender, is friendly and knowledgeable and most importantly the drinks were muy bien!

For Brian’s birthday we went snorkeling with Snorkel and Beach Tour on the S.S. Tobias (http://www.snorkelandbeachtour.com/). We drove to Fajardo and departed from Villa Marina. We made 3 stops off the coast of the island of Culebra, two of which we snorkeled at and enjoyed the fish and coral reef. You could rent waterproof cases for your smartphone that worked perfectly underwater and they served lunch and drinks on board. The final stop was Tortuga Beach on Little Culebra island, that was fun to explore and swim in the crystal clear water. I highly recommend the experience and this company.

Snorkeling at Culebra

We used a tour guide named Rupert Cosme, who was recommended to me by Louie’s VIP tours, for a full day El Yunque rainforest and biobay combination tour. I suggest you either use someone else or book the excursion on your own so that you can see what you want and enjoy the excursions at your leisure.

El Yunque (http://www.fs.usda.gov/elyunque) is the only tropical rain forest in the United

La Mina Falls

States Forest System. Because the island is volcanic, there are no indigenous species so you won’t be seeing any monkeys or snakes. However you will hear the call of the Coqui frog. You can absolutely drive to El Yunque and explore on your own. We hiked down to La Mina Falls and Brian braved the waterfall. We would have liked to climb the tower to get a 360 view but our tour guide didn’t take us. There are some places to eat along the road in the rainforest that have cheap local cuisine.

We spent a few hours at Luquillo Beach. It’s a very picturesque public beach without any hotels obscuring the view of the rainforest in the background.

Luquillo Beach

A highlight of our trip was kayaking in the bioluminescent bay. I’m not exactly sure which company we used since there are so many and Rupert, our tour guide, just signed us up for one. That being said, we spent about 20 minutes kayaking through mangroves in complete darkness trying to stay in single file, with only glow sticks on the bow and stern of each kayak as a guide. The crowds are unbelievable. Once you finally get to the bay, the stars above are awe inspiring and when you dip your paddle into the water it actually glows! The ecology of the bay includes plankton that emit a light when agitated at night. It’s more a sparkle than a glow but it’s spectacular. It’s pretty frustrating to paddle back with beginner kayakers who are trying to go against the current, however this excursion is not to be missed. Here’s a great article to learn more: http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/glow-flow-kayaking-eerie-bioluminescent-bays-puerto-rico-article-1.1126777

We spent a late afternoon and evening in Old San Juan. You can visit both Castillo de San Cristobal and Castillo San Felipe del Morro (http://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm). They are fun to explore and I recommend going at dusk as the crowds thin and the temperature drops. You can take a free trolley that runs throughout all of Old San Juan between the two forts. The history and views are worth the visit.

El Morro

San Cristobal

Puerto Rico was a wonderful island to visit and exactly what the doctor ordered…a little fun in the sun!

Artistic Freedom in DC

Brian and I had the pleasure of taking the train to Washington, DC to celebrate Irene and Jake’s wedding. We had just enough time to visit the Phillips Collection which was only a 10 minute walk from our hotel in Dupont Circle. To be honest, before arriving in DC I had never heard of the Phillips Collection, but we are so happy that Jessica suggested we go!

The Phillips Collection was founded by Duncan Phillips in his family home, a Georgian revival where the collection is still held. Along with his wife and mother, the Phillips family collected modern and contemporary artwork and opened their collection to the public in 1921. The building has expanded to include new acquisitions.

The temporary exhibition on view is Man Ray-Human Equations and I thought it was very interesting. Based on my 20th Century Art class in college, I only knew Ray as a photographer but this exhibition featured his photography as well as painting. Essentially after studying 19th century mathematical models, Ray photographed the models in his quintessential surrealist style that plays with light and shadow. Ray then created paintings based on the photographs. This series of paintings he titled Shakespearean Equations as each painting is named after a different Shakespeare play. Seeing the models, photographs and paintings all together has an extraordinary effect. It allowed me to appreciate Man Ray as an artist who was truly ahead of his time.

Shakespearean Equations, King Lear

Mathematical Object as photograph

Mathematical Object

 

We then ventured to the permanent collection. Around every corner there were more great pieces of modern art from heavy hitters like Paul Klee, Edward Hopper, Georgia O’Keefe and Alberto Giacometti. A highlight is the Rothko room. You are surrounded by four large scale Rothko works on each wall. The Phillips Collection actually built the room for the paintings making it the first American museum to dedicate a space to Rothko. I really loved it!

Selfie inside the Rothko Room

Georgia O’Keeffe, Arisaema triphyllum, 1930

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you have an hour in DC, find your way to the Phillips Collection and enjoy yourself! http://www.phillipscollection.org/ 

Southern Charm Part 1

2014 ended on a high note with a trip down South to Charleston, Savannah and Atlanta. Brian wanted to try all the delicious food in Charleston, I wanted to learn about the history of Savannah and we were delighted to visit our friends Mike and Dayna in Atlanta to ring in the new year. Here’s a little bit about what we ate, explored and learned on the first part of our trip in South Carolina, the Palmetto State…

Accommodations

Francis Marion Hotel: A historic hotel centrally located on King Street- which is essentially the main drag of Charleston. Quite honestly I got a great deal on the price and it served its purpose- a jumping off point to see all the sights. It felt old but they were going through some renovations. http://www.francismarionhotel.com/

Food

Husk: A highlight of the trip and one of the main reasons we traveled to Charleston. Brian

My delicious Amberjack entree at Husk

went a little heavy on the pork but between my clam appetizer and amberjack main course, it was one of the best meals I had all year. The service was exemplary and the restaurant was beautiful. If you go to Charleston, this meal is a must and book it in advance! http://www.huskrestaurant.com/home/

Pearlz Oyster Bar: We wanted local seafood and local seafood we got. After walking all morning, we walked into Pearlz when the doors opened at 2pm and enjoyed large oysters from the Lowcountry. Hit the spot! http://www.pearlzoysterbar.com/

Pearlz Oyster Bar

Hominy Grill

F.I.G. (Food Is Good): A truly delicious meal that was perfectly cooked. I’ll quote Brian when he said that it was “the best gnocchi [he’s] ever had!” Lots of farm to table options that satiated our appetite from start to finish such as a chicken liver pate that knocked my socks off! http://eatatfig.com/

Hominy Grill: We walked completely off the beaten path and then waited 45 minutes for this southern brunch gem. From Brian’s Charleston Nasty Biscuit to my gluten free pancakes, this was the meal we were craving all trip long. While you wait, you can order hot and cold drinks from a take out window which is a nice treat. http://hominygrill.com/

The Macintosh: The burgers were rated some of the best in the city and we were glad to

Even this sometimes picky eater devoured it!

travel to upper King Street so that Brian could proclaim the best burger for $15 that he’s ever eaten (there were a lot of superlatives on the trip). We decided to be adventurous in our appetizer choice and went with an inventive charcuterie plate that included a grouper bologna. Jeni’s ice cream is right next door and, if you can stay up later than me, head upstairs to the bar, The Cocktail Club. http://themacintoshcharleston.com/

What to Do

Two Sisters Walking Tour: Mary Helen was amazing and walked us in and out of the historic streets of the Holy City. The city got its nickname because of the prominence of church steeples that rise above the low skyline. We learned about the beginning of the settlement, originally Charles Town, and its devastation after 587 days of attack during the Civil War. In the wake of, what the locals call, the War Between the States, Charleston rebuilt and they put strict architectural preservation laws in place. The informative and interesting tour took about 2 hours and we got to see Rainbow Row, the Battery and important sights like St. Michael’s Church. http://www.twosisterstours.com/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim: We went on a nice tour of America’s oldest continuously used synagogue. Established as a Sephardic Orthodox congregation in 1749, the Reform movement took root in 1843 and despite wars and hurricanes, the congregation survives

Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim

and grows to this day. It was nice for us to go to a Jewish house of worship of such historical significance. http://www.kkbe.org/

Fort Sumter: Make sure to buy tickets ahead of time for the ferry to Fort Sumter, birthplace of the Civil War. Round-trip it’ll take you about 2 hours and 15 minutes and that includes an hour on the actual fort. The ferry includes an audio recording of the history of the fort and highlights how about 100 Union soldiers on April 12, 1861 did their best to hold the fort in the Charleston harbor but ultimately surrendered to the Confederates, starting the Civil War. It’s a significant and unique part of our country’s history and the ferry ride back with the sunset and dolphins was the cherry on top! http://www.nps.gov/fosu/index.htm

Fort Sumter

Fort Sumter

 

 

 

 

 

Magnolia Plantation: Just 25 minutes north of Charleston is the historic Magnolia Plantation. Unfortunately we had a rainy day to visit the Plantation so we didn’t get to view the renowned gardens. The house tour was good and helped us better understand the Draytons, the family that owns the land, and if we had had a nicer day we would have spent more time in the gardens and exploring the slave quarters to learn more about the less discussed side of plantations. Make sure to check the website before you go to print out coupons for the various tours. http://www.magnoliaplantation.com/

 

What we didn’t get to see includes the Nathaniel Russell House and Halsey Institute. It also would be fun to take a trip out to the nearby islands to enjoy the beaches and outdoor adventures like kayaking and swamp boating at Cypress Gardens among the alligators. I would suggest skipping the City Market which is really just a crowded, overpriced flea market.

Ferry to Fort Sumter

Add Charleston to your list of must visit cities for many reasons but let me stress how wonderful the food was, how beautiful the city is and how much we enjoyed learning about the history of the Holy City. We’re so glad to have spent 3 days in Charleston and next time when we visit it’ll be in the warmer months to take advantage of all the Lowcountry has to offer. Part two takes us to Georgia, where we walked among the Spanish Moss of Savannah and drove around the urban sprawl of Atlanta to ring in the New Year!

Lake Placid Love

One of my favorite places on the planet is Lake Placid, New York. Nestled in the breathtaking Adirondack Park, Lake Placid is most famous for hosting the 1932 and 1980 winter Olympics. I love learning about the history upstate, so much so that my senior thesis at Barnard College was about Jewish Adirondack summer camps at the turn of 20th Century. If you want to learn more about the history of Lake Placid, check out this link: http://www.lakeplacid.com/do/history

As a tip of the hat to Ken Burns’ amazing PBS documentary, The Roosevelts: An Intimate Documentary (http://www.pbs.org/kenburns/films/the-roosevelts), did you know Teddy Roosevelt found out that President McKinley had died and that he would be succeeding him as president on top of Mount Marcy, the highest peak in the park?

The majority of my time spent upstate has been during the summer but last weekend I had the pleasure of visiting Lake Placid in the fall. Besides the fact that the weather was flawless, the trip was worth it simply for the foliage. Besides oohing and ahhing at the spectrum of colors on the trees, here’s what else we did:

We stayed at The Whiteface Lodge. It’s a little bit of a drive from the center of town (which is actually right on Mirror Lake) but it’s a wonderful hotel with well-appointed rooms, including kitchenettes  that are able to convey a rustic yet modern feel in the rooms. The views of Whiteface Mountain are spectacular and the grounds include an indoor/outdoor pool, lean-to’s to hang around in and bonfires to sit by and make s’mores. The breakfast each morning was hearty as well. http://www.thewhitefacelodge.com/

Friday night, Brian and I ate at the much buzzed about Chair 6. The food was very good but the ambiance is bizarre. It’s in a small house and while the menu seems plentiful, the majority of what we wanted to eat was sold out (by 7pm..hmmm) so we had to order the more expensive items off of the specials menu. I had heard so much about the restaurant and I’m happy we tried it but I probably won’t go back the next time I’m in town. http://chair6.com/

My dad and my brother are certified 46-er’s, which means they’ve climbed all 46 High Peaks in the Adirondacks. It also means that when the parking lot at the Adirondack Loj was filled we realized that climbing Phelps was not a possibility, my dad was quickly able to think of another great hike. We decided to climb up Round Mountain and after 2.3 miles we made it to the summit. It was the most amazing view of the Great Range. The real hero of the hike was my mom who reluctantly trekked all the way up and down just to spend time with us. She rocked it! For other great climbs, check out: http://www.lakeplacid.com/do/outdoors/summerfall/hiking/46-high-peaks 

Saturday night, we went to the Lake Placid Lodge for dinner. It is one of the premier resorts in the region and if you get there for sunset, grab a drink at the bar and relax by the lake. The dinner was long but delicious. The four courses were perfect Adirondack cuisine- fresh and delicious. http://www.lakeplacidlodge.com/

Sunday on our way back to the city we stopped at the Marcy Field farmer’s market in Keene Valley. If you stop, check out the stands for Asgaard Farms for some cheese (http://www.asgaardfarm.com/), Ausable Brewing Company for some beer (http://ausablebrewing.tumblr.com/) and Mase Chasm Farm for veggies and sandwiches (http://www.macechasmfarm.com/).  

For other fun activities to do and attractions to see, check out: http://images.data2gold.com/00411/latesummerattraction2014.pdf – I can vouch for the ski jump and the Adirondack Museum as great day activities.

Lake Placid always holds a special place in my heart. My parents started taking us up here when I was a young child. Then I spent my summers at sleep away camp in nearby Lake George and as an adult I continue to return to the scenery because it offers a respite from the busy city. I’m most myself among the peaks of the mountains, the blues of the lake and the plethora of stars at night.

 

Art in Armonk

To begin, I need to apologize for my hiatus. Between moving apartments and focusing all my attention on my fourth graders for the start of school, I’ve had little time to add anything of substance to the blog, let alone sit down and post. However, I want to let everyone in on a great out of the city treat. This weekend you can travel to Armonk, New York for the 53rd annual Armonk Outdoor Art Show (http://www.armonkoutdoorartshow.org/). Besides it being a staple of my childhood and likely the only notable event that ever occurs in my sleepy hometown, it is also expertly co-chaired by my mother! She volunteers with other wonderful town members to execute an Art Show that allows visitors to ramble through aisles of fine art and fine crafts. Best of all, proceeds benefit the North Castle Public Library.

Dara and I volunteering at the Armonk Outdoor Art Show last year, September 2013. We love supporting our local library!

 

Here’s what you need to know:

1. The weather is supposed to be spectacular this weekend. Take Metro North to North White Plains or drive to Armonk. If you drive, be prepared to park and take a short shuttle to the field or you can walk from your parking spot. Just please don’t give the parking volunteers a hard time; one of them could be my dad or boyfriend.
2. There are plenty of food options and there’s even a kid friendly corner so come hungry and come with the little ones.
3. You can buy wonderful art from local and national artists. I’m keeping my eyes peeled for something captivating for our new apartment.
4. You can print out a discount coupon from the link above, otherwise it’s only $10 for adults. There’s really nothing better than supporting arts and books…at least in this teacher’s opinion.
5. I’ll be there on Saturday at the the Entrance Booth from 12:15-2:45 but you can stop by Saturday or Sunday from 10am-5pm.

Essentially, don’t miss out on a great opportunity to see, buy and/or enjoy terrific art just outside NYC. Check out this article if you want more information. My mom couldn’t have said it any better! http://theinsidepress.com/the-crafting-of-armonks-annual-outdoor-art-show/

A Beacon of Art on the Way to the Berkshires

About 12 years ago I first visited Dia: Beacon so I was well overdue for another trip to this fantastic museum (http://www.diaart.org/sites/main/beacon). Brian and I met Kate and Russell there on our way up to Nick and Nadine’s wedding reception in the Berkshires. We took the car but you can easily take a Metro-North train and walk from the station. It’s only an hour north of the city on the Hudson River.

Richard Serra’s gigantic sculptures fit perfectly within site specific galleries.

The building is probably one of my favorite aspects of the museum. It is the former home of the Nabisco box printing factory and it is humongous at 300,000 square feet. This allows for large scale art to easily fit within the confines of the walls without feeling stifled, like they often feel in smaller, more traditional museums. Natural light pours in from skylights and it illuminates the expansive rooms that hold the artwork.

Curators expertly place Dan Flavin’s artwork to illuminate, both literally and figuratively, the gallery space and windows.

Some of the artwork was created specifically for the museum such as Sol LeWitt’s 2003 graphite version of his  Drawing Series-Composite, Part I–IV, #1–24, A + B (1968). Other galleries were designed to best present the artwork like Dan Flavin’s fluorescent light creations, Monuments for V. Tatlin. There is a 1pm free tour offered on Saturday and I would recommend taking it so that you have a better understanding of the very conceptual, artwork. There are cards throughout the galleries that give the visitor biographical information as well as insight into the artwork you are viewing.

Michael Heizer’s “North, East, South, West” 1967/2002 forces the viewer to look at art as a negative space and it also forced us to stand on our tippy toes in the hopes of seeing into the bottomless pits.

The spacious gallery that hold John Chamberlin’s iconic mutilated car part art.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It took us about 90 minutes to wander through the Dia and then we enjoyed a lunch at the cafe. The grounds are beautiful and we enjoyed eating outdoors on the sunny day. After the museum, we caravaned up to the Berkshires to celebrate the Marshalls!

Cousins at Nick and Nadine’s nuptials!

Connecting with Connecticut

The best way to beat the heat in Manhattan during the summer is to get out of the city. It helps to have a friend with a house in Connecticut who was willing to invite us up for a night in the country. Audrey is a co-worker of mine and she has a beautiful home in Lakeville, Connecticut which is about a 2 hour drive north from the city and right on the New York state border. Lauren and I made it up in no time and we enjoyed an evening by the pool, grilling for dinner and then drinking wine during a frightening thunderstorm.

In the morning, we had breakfast in the town of Millerton (in New York state) at Irving Farm Country House. They also have 5 locations in New York City including one in my neighborhood of the Upper West Side. The coffee is roasted at their nearby Hudson Valley farm and it’s delicious! http://www.irvingfarm.com/

Lauren and Charlie!

We took a walk down the street to Harney and Sons for a tea tasting. You can try their two featured blends and then choose one more from hundreds of boxes. The employees are very knowledgeable about blends and origins of the different teas and they can certainly recommend a tea based on your preferences. Best of all, Charlie, Audrey’s dog, was allowed in! It was fun to watch them steep the tea and when we were done sipping, we enjoyed the gift shop which included beautiful tea pots and gifts. https://www.harney.com/ 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We wanted to get back to nature so Audrey drove us up windy Mount Riga to South Pond. The beach is exclusive to Salisbury residents and requires a free beach pass that Audrey applied for online. A recent study confirmed the pristine environment condition of the pond so you cannot bring floats or boats onto the water. You can take a dip and bask in the sun though! We tried looking into the history of the pond because there were rumors that the lake was formed from a crater or a mining site however I couldn’t find any evidence of either suggestion in my research. Regardless of the history, it was beautiful to spend a few hours in this rural paradise.

 

 

 

 

 

Lauren and I had such a wonderful time in Connecticut with Audrey. We had to head back to the city eventually but we’ll certainly be back!! If you have a weekend to get out of the city, consider western CT and check out some great towns and sights.

California Love Part 2

Part 2 focuses on our drive from San Fran to Los Angeles, primarily on the Pacific Coast Highway.

Day 5…

– Breakfast at Dottie’s: It was recommended by many, especially Dara and Andrew, and it was worth the 30 minute wait, in the sun, surrounded by bums. Dishes are huge and Brian thought their jalapeno jelly on cornbread should not be missed.. http://dotties.biz/

– We took US 1 from SF to Monterey. It was about a 3 hour drive. It’s faster if you take the freeway.

– Monterey Bay Aquarium: Admission was a part of the CityPass and it was highly suggested. We were a little underwhelmed but probably because we had been spoiled by the aquarium at the California Academy of Science. The highlights of the aquarium were the kelp forest, which is filled with bay water that is continuously pumped through the exhibit, the deep sea tank with large tuna, sunfish and hammerheads, and the otters, who were playful and mesmerizing to watch. There are movie presentations and feeding times each day as well. http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/ 

– We drove to Carmel and stayed at the Carmel Lodge. It was a simple place and conveniently located within the adorable town of Carmel by the Sea. http://www.carmellodge.com/

 

– Dinner at Flaherty’s: The reviews online were great but the hotel cautioned against the restaurant because previous hotel guests had complained about the terrible service. We went anyways and were pleasantly surprised. There were tons of gluten free options and the food was really good. Fine dining is plentiful in Carmel and we were told it’s hard to pick a bad place to eat. http://www.flahertysseafood.com/home

– If we could do it again, we’d get on the road earlier and take the freeway to the aquarium. Monterey is one big tourist trap so we’d leave the city and take 17 Mile drive through Pacific Grove and Pebble Beach to Carmel. Then we’d spend time walking around the town of Carmel before dinner. They had great shops but we ran out of time to see everything this quaint town had to offer.

Day 6…

– Breakfast at Katy’s: It was exactly the type of brunch you want before hitting the road; hearty and tasty. Gluten free pancakes to boot! http://www.katysplacecarmel.com/

– Carmel: We walked around the town a bit and bought some gifts. There’s so much to buy! I  wish we had more time though because it’s supposed to be beautiful and romantic!

– Drive down the PCH: Now this is what we were waiting for. The drive is spectacular. We wanted to pull off at every vista point but you have to be choosy if you’re ever going to make it to your destination. Bixby Bridge and Hurricane Point were two of our favorites. Don’t forget to bring binoculars! We were not aware of this but everyone we met let us borrow theirs as we all noticed a pod of dolphins and whales near shore. It was spectacular. We also saw otters and heard sea lions barking. The drive through Big Sur is breathtaking as you make your way along the windy roads of the coast and the steep incline though the redwoods of Los Padres National Forest.

 

 

 

 

– Limekiln State Park: We stopped off at this state park for a quick hike as recommended by my dear friend Laura who recently did the drive. It was perfect because it only took us about 20 minutes to hike to a waterfall. There were other paths we would have loved to explore but we just ran out of time. Also, the park goes right to the ocean and we it had great campgrounds. http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=577

– Elephant Seal Rookery: Right as we entered San Simeon, we pulled off the highway and saw a beach-ful of elephant seals! They are tremendous and hilarious and you won’t believe how many seals are snoring on the beach! We were told that if you want to see more action and less sleeping, that you should visit the rookery earlier in the day. http://www.elephantseal.org/Rookery/where.html

– Hearst Castle: We booked the last tour of the day about a week before we went on the trip. The website suggested The Grand Rooms Tour for first time visitors and I thought it was a great choice. It gave you a great overview of the history of the house and Hearst. After the 45 minute tour you can explore the pools and grounds. There were many docents spread out over the property who were knowledgeable and answered our many questions. Just be prepared to be awed. This castle, is just that, a castle and after 28 years of working with architect Julia Morgan on the home, Hearst felt it was only 50% finished! http://hearstcastle.org/

 

 

 

 

– We stayed at the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo. Each room at this infamous hotel is uniquely decorated with just the right amount of kitsch and fun. We stayed in a room called Floral Fantasy and it was floor to ceiling pink and red. We worried that the hotel would be old, dirty and dated but we were pleasantly surprised with how nice it was. It was a hoot to stay there and a perfect stopping point after a long day on the road. http://www.madonnainn.com/

Our room at the Madonna Inn

– The only thing we’d change about Day 6 is that we’d stretch it out over a few days and probably camp. There’s so many vista points we wanted to stop at and so many places we would have hiked, that it would have been great to feel less in a rush as we made our way down US 1.

Day 7…

– Los Olivos: We headed directly to the town of Los Olivos and met up with Brian’s sister, Bonnie, for a fun day of wine tasting. We visited 3 wineries: Alexander and Wayne, Arthur Earl and Carhartt. My favorite was Carhartt because their wine was delicious and they had a beautiful outdoor patio space to enjoy the drinks. (http://www.arthurearl.com/AW http://www.arthurearl.com/ http://www.carharttvineyard.com/) 

– Lunch at Panino: Delicious sandwiches (I did mine wrapped in lettuce). Bonnie said that on the weekend this place is packed and we could see why. (http://www.paninorestaurants.com/index.php)

– We stayed at the Hadsten House in Solvang. The hotel was great, especially for the price. Upon arrival you receive a complimentary wine pass to local wineries. The town of Solvang is a Danish enclave in the middle of California. All the buildings make you feel like you are in Denmark, windmills and all! We dined at Root 246. It was a delicious meal in a beautiful building. (http://www.hadstenhouse.com/ http://www.root-246.com/)

Day 8 starts with our final leg of the drive to Los Angeles, with a stop at the Reagan Presidential Library along the way. If you want to see great photographs of the highway being built check out this link: http://www.kcet.org/updaily/socal_focus/history/la-as-subject/from-the-roosevelt-highway-to-the-one-a-brief-history-of-pacific-coast-highway.html.

The takeaway from the drive was that it was fantastic and we wished it was longer. Between the scenery, the wildlife and the sights along the way, it’s no wonder that the Pacific Coast Highway is one of the best drives in America. What would you add to our drive? We heard Pismo Beach would have been a great stop!

California Love Part 1

The gap in posting can be explained by my amazing 10 day California adventure with my boyfriend, Brian. The trip can easily be broken down into 3 parts: San Francisco, Central Coast and Los Angeles. So I’ll give a day by day primer of the highlights in 3 installments.

San Francisco was originally established by the Spanish and later the Mexicans. In 1846, the United States conquered the city and not long after, the Gold Rush brought an influx of men to the Bay area, including a large population of Chinese. The 1906 earthquake ravished the city and it was forced to rebuild. By the 1950’s and 1960’s, the city became a breeding ground for the counterculture movements. The tech boom of the 80’s and 90’s led to the bars, restaurants and high price of living. From little frontier town to metropolis, San Francisco offers something for everyone! 

Day 1…

– We flew to San Fran. My brother, Keith, met us at the airport and we drove to my aunt and uncle’s home in Mill Valley (Marin County, about an hour from the airport). We were grateful to have them host us and provide us with a fantastic, paleo/g-free/dairy-free meal.

Day 2…

– Climb Mount Tamalpais: We decided to take the steep Zig Zag trail up the mountain and descended via the Panoramic and Oceanview trails.

– Muir Woods: This national monument is not to be missed. It’s very manageable to navigate so you can explore every humongous tree. You’ll marvel at their age and size and learn a lot along the well maintained paths. You can drive to the park if you do not want to hike to it. http://www.nps.gov/muwo/index.htm 

 

 

 

 

– Lunch at the Mountain Home Inn: Hit the spot after a long morning of hiking. The views weren’t half bad either. http://www.mtnhomeinn.com/

– Giants game at AT&T Park: We got great tickets in the View Reserve Right Field section with views of the Bay Bridge. We took the Muni out to the game, which was fast and easy. I was able to enjoy a gluten free beer and hot dog. The three of us had to try the infamous Gilroy garlic fries, which were as expected…garlic and fries (nothing special). It does get chilly at the stadium so remember to dress warmly. http://sanfrancisco.giants.mlb.com 

– For our three nights in San Fran we stayed at the Hilton in Union Square. The location is ideal for getting all around the city but it borders the Tenderloin neighborhood which is very seedy, dirty and smelly. The hotel room was nice but we felt that the bathroom was particularly small. http://www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/california/hilton-san-francisco-union-square-SFOFHHH/index.html

Day 3…

– CityPass: Keith found this amazing deal for the CityPass which we picked up at the Visitor’s Center. You can order the CityPass online ahead of time and it’s available in many other cities. You get half off access to great museums and unlimited use of public transportation. http://www.citypass.com/san-francisco

– de Young Museum: We took the bus to Golden Gate Park and walked right up to the museum. If you do not buy a CityPass, you can tell them that you took public transportation and get $2 off your admission fee. The museum has an impressive collection of art from America, Africa and Oceania. My favorite parts of the museum were the outdoor sculptures and the architecture of the museum itself. We took the elevator up to observatory level and enjoyed an amazing view of the city. https://deyoung.famsf.org/

– California Academy of Sciences: In one word – amazing. We explored the rain forest, aquarium and special exhibit about skulls for nearly 2 and half hours. We decided to catch the planetarium show, which was terrible (so terrible in fact, that Keith slept through it). By the time it was over the museum was closed and we still hadn’t seen everything. Do not miss out and leave yourself lots of time. http://www.calacademy.org/ 

– Haight Ashbury: We walked through Golden Gate Park towards the former center of the hippie movement. Unfortunately walking along Haight street is grimy and feels more like a relic rather than a tribute to the Summer of Love.

– Alamo Square: We continued our walk to the park so that we can snap a photo with the Victorian homes featured in the opening credits of Full House. 

– Dinner at Coi: My birthday is around the corner and my boyfriend spoiled me with a delicious meal at this James Beard award winning restaurant. We both agreed the food was yummy, service was impeccable and they were very accommodating of my gluten free needs. However, the tasting menu is quite pricey for what you get. But it was such a special meal that I really have no complaints and I would recommend it. Also, it’s not pronounced /koi/ like the fish, rather it’s pronounced /qua/. http://coirestaurant.com/

Day 4…

– Mission District: We spent the majority of the day in this very trendy neighborhood. Our goal was to try lots of cheap and delicious food. The only problem was that we showed up before the restaurants opened (11am). We only had time to chow down on an arepa at Pica Pica (http://www.picapica.com/) before we went to West of Pecos (http://westofpecos.com/) to watch the World Cup finals with friends. After lunch Brian enjoyed a burrito and we wandered Valencia street, weaving in and out of a few cute shops. 

 

 

 

 

– Blue and Gold Fleet Cruise: The CityPass included a 1 hour boat ride on the bay. We wanted a great view so we stood at the bow, with wind in our hair and the dream of an extra sweater on my mind, and enjoyed our trip from Pier 39. The ride went under the Golden Gate Bridge and then around Alcatraz, which was great because we weren’t able to make it to the jail due to the need to order tickets over a month in advance. You get some great San Francisco history if you can hear the recording over the wind. We were bummed that the sea lions weren’t out when we docked though. http://www.blueandgoldfleet.com/ 

– Dinner at Slanted Door: This was my second time at the restaurant and it was significantly better than I remembered. Really interesting modern Vietnamese food but be careful not to over order; portions are large. The restaurant is located within the ferry building which has lots of great food options to try out! Think a less hectic Chelsea Market. http://www.slanteddoor.com/

 

Day 5 begins with our trip down the Pacific Coast Highway and I’ll post that soon.  Overall, there is so much to see, eat and do in San Francisco. However, the beauty of much of the city is ruined by a sense of grime that seems to overwhelm. Despite some smelly blocks, the highlight of our time in the city was exploring the Bay Area with my brother and every time I leave San Fran, I have more I want to see like Alcatraz, Lombard Street, Coit Tower and the Castro. What else should we add to the list?