It’s Mostly Sunny in Philadelphia

I lived in Philadelphia for 2 years, from 2011 to 2013, and I was inspired by the Eagles Super Bowl win to put together a list of some of my favorite places to eat and visit while in the City of Brotherly Love.

 

Me and Brian in front of the Philadelphia Museum of Art (Yes I highly recommend you run up the steps and throw your hands up like Rocky!)

 

 

Me and Rachel in front of the Barnes Foundation

I’ll primarily be writing about Center City which is where I lived and which is flanked by the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers. However, there are other great neighborhoods worth checking out when you’re in town.

 

Philadelphia was settled by the Quaker William Penn in the British colony of Pennsylvania. The other important man of the city is Benjamin Franklin. His lasting impact over Philly is felt everywhere- from his name on nearly every neighborhood, building and square and his forward-thinking ideas of starting the first American hospital, fire department and library to name a few. Philadelphia played a pivotal role in the Revolutionary War as it hosted both the First and Second Continental Congresses and then the Continental Convention as the Constitution was being written. The city was the temporary capital of the United States from 1790-1800.

 

Hanging with some of the Founding Fathers at the Constitution Center

 

 

My poppy, mom and brother in the National Museum of Jewish American History

 

Where to Eat

There are so many amazing places to eat in Philly and in the 5 years since I’ve lived there even more places have popped up. Here’s a list of a few that I loved when I lived there:

Vernick Food and Drink

Laura enjoying a hoagie at Reading Terminal

 

Zahav

Laurel

Will BYOB

Barbuzzo

Sampan

Federal Donuts

Amada

Tinto

Green Eggs

Sabrina’s

You’ll need to get a cheesesteak but I would actually recommend John’s Roast Pork for both their cheesesteak and their roast pork sandwich. Also, the pretzels in Philadelphia are amazing! Check out Reading Terminal if you want to try a variety of foods from delicious stalls.

Exploring the Betsy Ross home in Old City

Remy doing her best impression at the Rodin Museum

 

 

Where to Visit

Philadelphia Museum of Art

Barnes Foundation

Mural Arts Tour

Independence Hall and Liberty Bell

Keith in front of the Liberty Bell

Constitution Center

Betsy Ross House

Franklin Institute

Eastern State Penitentiary

Magic Gardens

National Museum of Jewish American History

Also if you have time check out one of my favorite stores, Open House, on 13th street which is one of my favorite streets in the city.

The best city blog I’ve ever read is Uwishunu. Before visiting Philly check it out to see what’s going on in all the neighborhoods in the city.

If you have a weekend and feel like taking a trip to Philadelphia, do it and enjoy every moment of history and food!

 

Que Te Vaya Bonito COLOMBIA 2

We took a short flight north from Bogota to Cartagena. Originally called Cartagena de India (to distinguish it as Cartagena in the West Indies rather than Cartagena in Spain), the city has a lot of personality and when we were there in December it was brutally hot. Cartagena is distinguished by the old city, surrounded by 11km of walls with squares dotted throughout the interior, and growing high rises outside the walls.

Where We Stayed

Sofitel Legend Santa Clara– Formerly a convent, the hotel is centrally located and full of historical details. The rooms are big, the pool area was great to relax by and they had gluten free bread at breakfast.  

Where to Eat

Don Juan– Delicious and a great vibe. La Vitrola- Cuban inspired cuisine and live music made this a must go to spot. Carmen– Asian inspired dishes. Alma– traditional Colombian cuisine. Monte Sacro– lunch spot that had fresh fish.

What We Did

Rosario Islands– The 60-minute motorboat ride to the islands was a breeze and it brought us to the Rosario Island archipelago. The 27 islands are protected by the Natural National Parks of Colombia and you have a plethora of activities to choose from. We opted to snorkel and enjoy the spectacular coral reefs. There’s a restaurant where we ate locally caught fish and then lounged by the beach. The boat ride back was not as smooth sailing as the trip over but I would suggest staying towards the back of the boat to handle the swells.

Castillo de San Felipe– It’s a bit of a hike up to the top of the fort but it’s worth it for the views. Due to Cartagena’s strategic location on the Caribbean Sea, the city built a fort in order to protect it from attacks. Did you know that Cartagena was attacked 11 times by pirates including Sir Francis Drake? You’ll see the Colombian flag in my photographs from the fort. We learned that the blue represents the water of the oceans that surround the country, yellow represents gold and the red represents the blood spilled for Colombian independence.

Convento de la Popa– You cannot walk up to the convent and instead must drive but you wouldn’t want to walk anyways since you really would be climbing up a mountain. You’ll get another spectacular view and learn about this beautiful convent. I particularly loved the interior courtyard with hanging gardens.

Church San Pedro Claver– After walking around the old city in the blazing heat, we walked into the Church and felt both a respite from the sun and tranquility from the city. The church is named after Saint Peter Claver who died in Cartagena and spent his life working with the slaves that were traded from Africa to the New World.

Palace of the Inquisition– The terrors of the Inquisition were not limited to Spain and Portugal in the 15th Century. In fact, the Court of the Holy Office carried out the work of the Inquisition until 1821 in Cartagena. Many innocent men and women were tortured and killed in the halls of what is a now a museum dedicated to their injustice.

We spent a morning walking through a local marketplace and this was the real deal. It was an eye-opening experience for me because there was every imaginable fruit, vegetable, and protein just out there in the open. Truthfully it was a little much for me but everyone else in my family really enjoyed walking through the stalls and picking out ingredients. We then had an unforgettable meal that we cooked with a local chef!

I highly recommend getting on a plane and heading to Colombia as soon as possible! It’s a wonderful country and I can’t wait to go back!

Que Te Vaya Bonito COLOMBIA

My absolute favorite travel article was published this week- The New York Times’ 52 Places to Go. I thought it would be fun to share some past blog posts and create new ones based on the list’s recommendations. Check out my Instagram account @theprimarysource1 where I’ll repost previous destinations from the list that I’ve already blogged about. For now, here’s a rundown of my trip to Colombia in December 2015 which was ranked #2 on the list!

 

On the top of Monserrate with Bogota below

 

History

Start by watching Netflix’s hit show Narcos. It will give you a comprehensive understanding of how Pablo Escobar rose to power as a drug lord and how his influence dominated all aspects of life in Colombia- from the violence that arose on the streets to the turmoil he caused in government. Prior to Escobar’s rise, the country’s history begins with a culturally diverse indigenous population that was razed by Spain’s colonization of the land. In 1819 Simon Bolivar defeated the Spanish leading to the independence of the Republic of Gran Colombia which included Ecuador, Panama, and Venezuela in addition to Colombia. By 1903 the country’s borders became defined as we know it today. Pretty much all of the 20th century was riddled with violence throughout the nation as it dealt with a civil war and nationalist groups formed. However, in the past few years Colombia has experienced relative peace specifically in the cities we chose to visit and we felt safe as American tourists.

A Few Tips

• English is not readily spoken throughout the country. Learn some Spanish or be prepared with important phrases before you go.
• Keep toilet paper with you in your purse. Bathrooms are not always updated and sometimes you have to pay for toilet paper so just bring plenty along with you.
• Your trip can be affordable as airfare and restaurants tend to be much more reasonably priced than other tropical getaways (ie Miami and the islands in the Caribbean).
• We really did feel very safe, especially in Cartagena where I felt comfortable walking the streets on my own during the day. We took cabs in the evening.

Bogota

We took a JetBlue flight from NYC and connected through Miami to land in Bogota, the nation’s capital. The city is located in the Andes Mountains towards the interior of the country and we felt cooler temperatures in December. The graffiti in the city is a treasure unto itself and you can take a tour of the wall murals (see below for some of my favorites that my mom snapped during her tour of the city the day before we arrived).

Where We Stayed

Four Seasons Casa Medina– The hotel had just opened when we were there. The rooms were large and the hotel had a lot of character with Spanish colonial accents.

Where We Ate

El Son de Los Grillos– Local spot on a side street not far from Plaza Bolivar. A must try is

Ajiaco Soup

the famous Bogota ajiaco soup. It’s hearty and full of flavor.

Andre Carne de Res– A once in a lifetime experience. It’s at least a 60 minute drive out of town, but it will absolutely blow your mind. It’s been described as Alice In Wonderland meets Moulin Rouge but multiply that image in your mind by 1,000 and consider that the menu is 68 pages long and the restaurant itself is 2.76 square miles. Come hungry and thirsty and ready to dance. The pictures below really don’t do the space justice. Check out the link to have your mind blown.

What We Did

Museo Del Oro– Better known as The Gold Museum. I absolutely loved the history and artifacts in this museum because it highlighted the importance of the element not for wealth but for its spiritual importance. Salt, in fact, was considered much more valuable to the indigenous peoples of Colombia. You’ll see gold in many forms but my favorite was the Pachamama which is the spiritual embodiment of mother earth revered as the most important female deity.  

Museo De Botero– A must visit. Botero’s full-figured portraits are easily recognizable and the museum pays tribute to the Colombian born artist. For those living in New York, you’re likely familiar with his sculptures at the main entrance of the Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle. The museum also includes artwork from other notable artists and the space itself is quite beautiful.

Cerro Monserrate– We took the cable car up and the funicular down from the top of the mountain that overlooks the capital, at an elevation of 10,341 ft. We visited the Sanctuary that requires you to walk up a wide set of stairs with the many others making a pilgrimage to the holy sight. There is also a restaurant and bathrooms on the top. The best part was the views!

Mom a little scared of the funicular!

With my husband, dad and mom with the beautiful church on top of Monserrate in background

Next time I’ll continue this post with our second stop in Colombia- Cartagena!

Southern Charm Remix Part 1

The blog is back! I’m back in the saddle and ready to fill you in on my adventures, from my perspective, both near and far. I haven’t spent the past two years living under a rock, so I plan to fill you in on some of my travels over the last 24 months.

Brian and I ended 2016 with a road trip from New Orleans to Atlanta. This post will be solely about the Nawlins part of our trip but stay tuned for more details about our road trip through Mississippi and Alabama.

Jackson Square named after President Jackson who led the U.S. to victory at the Battle of New Orleans

New Orleans

A little history…New Orleans defines the ultimate melting pot. Originally founded by the French, then ruled by the Spanish for approximately 40 years until President Jefferson signed the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 cementing Louisiana’s place in the United States. Due to its location as a port city from the Mississippi River to the Gulf of Mexico and its regime changes, New Orleans’ culture is unique. You’ll see it in the architecture throughout the neighborhoods, the sounds of music that waft through the air, the cuisine that you cannot find anywhere else and the people that you meet along the way.

Where to stay: New Orleans is a fairly large city, with many diverse neighborhoods. We chose to stay downtown in the Business District, as it is centrally located, next to the French Quarter but away from its crowded streets, and has an abundance of lodging options. We planned to visit many neighborhoods so easy access to the trolley was also a benefit.

 

On the famous streetcars along Charles Street

We stayed at The Intercontinental, as it was a good jumping off point and we got an excellent rate, including breakfast which made mornings easy. Ubers were readily available and we loved that the majority of our rides were in pickup trucks! I would recommend it as a no-frills place to rest your head at night. http://www.icneworleans.com/

 

Where to eat: New Orleans is chock full of amazing cuisine. My gluten-free diet limits me greatly in a city where beignets, po boys and muffalettas reign king (which reminds me to add King Cake to that list!). That being said we had no problem enjoying delicious meals in the Big Easy.

• Lilette: After our tour of the Garden District we were happy to sit down and enjoy a well-cooked meal. http://www.liletterestaurant.com/
• Commander’s Palace: A New Orleans institution with some old world flair, as men must wear collared shirts and a jacket. We went for dinner and the food was very good, but the right move is to actually go for lunch because the food is half the price and they feature 25 cent martinis! http://www.commanderspalace.com/
• Compere Lapin: We went for drinks and they were fabulous! It was a cool spot with wonderful bartenders, and you can stay for dinner.I just learned that it’s Top Chef Season 11 runner-up Nina Compton’s restaurant and wish we had the time to grab a seat. http://comperelapin.com/
• Shaya: Get the hummus with the soft boiled egg! It was the best hummus we’ve ever eaten and we’ve been to Israel! A delicious meal all around. http://www.shayarestaurant.com/ 

What to do: There are a ton of options but we were limited with our time. Also, Brian and I love rambling around new cities so we spent a lot of time walking around and just enjoying the sights!

Garden District Walking Tour: http://www.freetoursbyfoot.com/new-orleans-tours/

Residents of New Orleans bury their dead above ground because the city is below sea level. On our tour, we learned about the culture surrounding cemeteries in the city.

• We took the Garden Tour because it brought us to a very interesting part of the city, with architectural highlights. The tour included the Lafayette Cemetery and homes of several celebrities, including Sandra Bullock and, Brian’s personal favorite, Eli Manning’s childhood home. There were a lot of people on the tour which didn’t make it very personal but we got a lot of history for free! 

Manning family home

Audubon Park and Tulane: https://audubonnatureinstitute.org/audubon-park

• We took the streetcar out to Audobon Park which is located in the western part of the city. We only had time to see part of the expansive park, which includes a zoo and golf course. While in this part of the city we walked to Tulane to check out the beautiful campus. Don’t forget to look up while you walk through the quad to see Mardi Gras beads still hanging from the trees.

French Quarter 

French Quarter architecture at its finest

• What can I say? It’s nearly exactly as I expected. Crowded, hot and rowdy…even at 11am! It’s not my scene but we spent just enough time there to imagine what a college night in the city could look like.

National World War II Museum: https://www.nationalww2museum.org/

• The highlight of our trip. Plan to dedicate a lot of time here and expect crowds. There is so much to read and see that you simply can’t take it all in. It made me proud to be the granddaughter of two veterans who fought on the eastern and western fronts.

 

 

If we had visited in warmer weather we would have added a swamp tour to our itinerary. Also, wish we had time to visit the Chalmette Battlefield where the Battle of New Orleans was fought. Up next, New Orleans to Birmingham to Atlanta and some remarkable stops along the way.

Summer Adventure Part 2

After surviving a pretty intense hail storm on Tioga Pass, the only way in and out of Tuolumne Meadows of Yosemite National Park, we finally made it to Lake Tahoe!

The Keep Tahoe Blue campaign is strong. Its mission is to preserve and conserve the natural beauty of Lake Tahoe. Everyone has bumper stickers with the slogan and the area has taken to having a little fun with it. For example, the Brewery at Lake Tahoe has adopted “Drink Tahoe Brew”.

Did you know that Lake Tahoe is America’s second deepest lake? The border of California and Nevada goes through the middle of the lake and there are many towns that dot the circumference of the lake. We stayed in South Lake Tahoe just over the Nevada border and I consulted this article on Thrillist while planning (http://www.thrillist.com/travel/new-york/a-new-yorkers-guide-to-lake-tahoe).

Accommodations

We stayed at the 968 Park Hotel (http://www.968parkhotel.com/) and it was the perfect spot for us because it’s centrally located across from Heavenly Village and a short walk to the water.

Food

The first night we got in late and enjoyed pizza at Blue Dog Pizza (http://bluedogpizzatahoe.com/) in Heavenly Village. It was yummy and they had gluten free crust! Our second night we made a reservation at Scusa (http://www.scusalaketahoe.com/) in South Lake Tahoe. They had good reviews, gluten free options and it wasn’t far from the hotel. While the food was tasty and plentiful, it came out so quickly that it was hard to enjoy it.

We had two yummy and filling brunches in Tahoe. The first was at Ernie’s http://www.erniescoffeeshop.com/ and we were lucky because there was no wait (and they had gluten free bread!). Driftwood Cafe (http://www.driftwoodtahoe.com/) was also delicious however the first day we went there was a 45 minute wait so definitely try to get there earlier in the morning.

In Truckee, along the west coast of the lake, we grabbed a light lunch at Coffeebar http://www.coffeebartruckee.com/. We had tried to get into Squeeze Inn but it closed by 2pm. There are lots of options for food in Truckee and great shopping so leave some time to peruse.

What to Do

In the early morning we drove to Emerald Bay so that we could get on the lake with Kayak Tahoe (http://www.kayaktahoe.com/). Parking is tight so the earlier you can get there the better. You’ll also want to wear sneakers to walk down to the lake and bring flip flops for the boats. Keith decided to stand up paddleboard and we took out a double kayak. If a storm wasn’t moving in we would have spent 2 hours on the water and paddled farther out but we enjoyed the hour paddling around the island in the middle of the bay and just lounging on the lake. Also it’s right by Vikingsholm (http://www.vikingsholm.com/), a historic mansion that has daily tours.

After lunch in Truckee, we went to Donner Memorial State Park (http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=503) to check out the new Visitor’s Center. The center was small but had tons of information. We particularly enjoyed learning about the Donner Party and their treacherous journey across the Oregon Trail. They had decided to take what they hoped would be a short cut to the west coast but their trailblazing route allegedly lead to the infamous cannibalism. The center also included exhibits about the local Native Americans and the builders of the transcontinental railroad.

Outside the center is the original Pioneer Monument dedicated to the travelers of the Trail.

Portland

We chose to add on Portland, Oregon because, quite honestly, Brian wanted to eat at as many places as possible. I visited Portland about 6 years ago and it seems to have changed a lot. The city straddles the Willamette River, the very river that lead to the city’s origins as a lumber town. Two east coasters, one from Portland, Maine and the other from Boston, Massacusetts, flipped a penny to decide the name of the “Stumptown”. Guess who won? Also for all you Simpsons fans, creator Matt Groening is from the Rose City and it inspired many of Springfield’s residents: http://www.oregonlive.com/movies/2012/05/the_simpsons_map_of_portland_w.html

Accommodations

We stayed at The Jupiter Hotel (http://jupiterhotel.com/) located in the Burnside neighborhood of Portland. It’s about a 20 minute walk over the bridge to downtown. Portland hotels can get pricey but the Jupiter was right within our budget, with small but perfectly comfortable rooms. There’s a music venue and bar at the hotel so be sure to book a “Chill” room if you want a good night’s sleep. The staff was very helpful and answered all our questions enthusiastically.

Food

Screen Door

The first day we ate lunch at the food pods. Portland has tons of food carts and they are fun to ramble through and find your favorite. We decided on a Korean taco pod that hit the spot! Brunch is an art in Portland and our favorite was  at Screen Door (http://www.screendoorrestaurant.com/). It was absolutely worth the wait with its southern cuisine that kept us full for hours on end. Brian loved the chicken and waffles (and the biscuits and gravy), my shrimp and grits were delectable and don’t miss out on the praline bacon. Our last day we had brunch at Brunch Box (http://brunchboxpdx.com/), a teeny place with great breakfast sandwiches centrally located to get around the city.

Dinner at Por Que No

Our first night we met my friend Amanda and her husband at Por Que No (http://www.porquenotacos.com/). Despite the wait, it was amazing. Brian ate 6 different tacos, the margaritas were perfect and the ambience was Portland hipster. What more could you want? We’re Top Chef fans so we put Doug Adam’s restaurant, Imperial (http://www.imperialpdx.com/#welcome), at the top of our list. It’s a loud restaurant but everything we ate was delicious. We also loved sitting near the open kitchen and watching him work.  Still on our Top Chef kick, we wanted to try Gregory Gourdet’s Asian inspired cuisine restaurant, Departure (http://departureportland.com/), in the Nines hotel. We went for drinks at the rooftop bar before and sat outside for dinner. It’s a very trendy spot but the food was not as good as Imperial and there were some issues with service.

The lines at Voodoo donuts were crazy long so Brian decided to go to Blue Star instead as it’s been touted as the grown up donuts of Portland (http://www.bluestardonuts.com/) . Petunia’s, (http://petuniaspiesandpastries.com/), is a gluten free bakery in the city so I had to try it out since I couldn’t eat any donuts. We both agreed our snacks were so yummy!

What To Do

Although I’ve been to Portland before, we thought it would be fun to learn about some of the neighborhoods and history of the city so we went on a 2 hour jaunt with Portland Walking Tours (http://www.portlandwalkingtours.com/). We learned a lot and saw some great sights along the way.

Portlandia was sculpted to be the symbol of the city however sculptor Raymond Kaskey sues anyone who uses it for commercial purposes so it remains in relativity anonymity. Here’s an article to learn more about this pretty hilarious symbol: http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-23062-so_sue_us.html.

While Portland is known for its microbreweries, there’s a burgeoning distillery movement happening as well. We bought a Distillery Row passport for $20 which gives you access to seven distilleries (http://distillerypassport.com/). We made it to three; Eastside, Rolling River and New Deal, with Rolling River as our favorite.

At Rolling River where we tried Aquavit for the first time

New Deal Distillery

We took the bus up to the International Rose Test Garden (http://www.portlandoregon.gov/parks/finder/index.cfm?action=viewpark&propertyid=1113). It’s fun to ramble through the garden and see all the wild varieties of roses. If the day had been less hazy we would have had a spectacular view of Mount Hood.

The Portland Art Museum (http://portlandartmuseum.org/) had an Ai Wei Wei exhibit I wanted to check out. The exhibit was small but we looked around the other temporary exhibits as well. It’s definitely worth checking out.

Portland is a unique city. Think of a cross between San Francisco, Seattle and Brooklyn. There is a vast and present homeless population throughout the city and the neighborhoods differ greatly on either side of the river. It’s extremely walkable but you may want to utilize Uber or Lyft to get between neighborhoods.

It’s a tradition to take photos of your feet with the PDX airport carpet! They are ripping it up despite the residents’ love of it.

We had a terrific trip to Nevada, California and Oregon! I highly recommend going out west to any or all of our destinations.

Summer Adventure Part 1

The blog is back! I’m so sorry for the gap in posts but I promise that I’m going to hit the ground running with lots of new destinations I’ve explored and want to share with you. Brian and I took a trip out west to visit my brother, Keith, in Reno, Nevada. We spent the majority of our time in Yosemite National Park and Lake Tahoe before giving Keith a big hug and flying to Portland for the last few days of the trip. This post will focus on the first portion of the vacation, Reno and Yosemite.

Now you can fly direct to Reno from New York on JetBlue! Honestly, we didn’t do much in Reno besides eat and buy supplies for our camping trip. Keith told us that Reno is trying to revitalize itself and some of its neighborhoods and that was clear to see as we drove through the city. We stayed at The Whitney Peak Hotel (http://www.whitneypeakhotel.com/) , Reno’s only non-smoking, non-casino hotel but it’s hard to escape the smell of cigarette smoke that still lingers in the hallway. That being said it wasn’t overpriced and it was centrally located. Here’s where we ate:

Two Chicks (http://twochicksreno.com/) Delicious brunch with gluten free options. Super cute spot in the Midtown neighborhood. My favorite meal in Reno.

Great Full Gardens (http://greatfullgardens.com/) Great breakfast and coffee. Keith and Brian enjoyed the Leige waffles that were decadent.  Also in Midtown.

The Depot (http://thedepotreno.com/) Impressive craft brewery and distillery. Our mains were pretty good but we probably should have ordered more small plates since that was our favorite part of the meal. I loved the building and the decor as well.

If you have extra time in Reno, Keith suggested also checking out the Nevada Museum of Art http://www.nevadaart.org/. We also would have used Thrillist’s suggestions http://www.thrillist.com/travel/new-york/a-new-yorkers-guide-to-reno. Overall Reno, America’s Biggest Little City, was a great jumping off point for the rest of our journey.

Domes on our Glen Aulin hike

Yosemite National Park 

This summer commemorates Yosemite’s 125th anniversary as our country’s third national park. President Benjamin Harrison signed the legislation that protects 1,500 square miles of awe inspiring land and water forms. We were overwhelmed by the beauty of the park and our time spent in Yosemite was the highlight of the trip. We camped for 3 nights. On April 15th, camping spots open up and you have to be fast to grab spots. The first night we camped at Tuolumne Meadows and the second and third nights we stayed at the Upper Pines campsite in Yosemite Valley. The experience of camping put me totally out of my element but it was wonderful and made me feel like we had an authentic back to nature vacation.

On the way to Yosemite we stopped to check out the views of Mono Lake and to grab food in Lee Vining so that the boys could eat fish tacos at the Whoa Nellie Deli (http://www.whoanelliedeli.com/). These tacos are named some of the best gas station food in the country!

From the summit of Thunder Dome

We went on three separate hikes. The first day we hiked 13 miles round trip to Glen Aulin Sierra Camp (http://www.yosemitehikes.com/tioga-road/glen-aulin/glen-aulin.htm) The hike was relatively flat but the vistas were spectacular. We went off course a bit to climb one of the domes to get some rock scrambling in and declared it Thunder Dome. The boys jumped in Tenaya Lake to cool off after the hike and we celebrated the Fourth of July with some beers by Keith’s pickup truck. Doesn’t get more American than that!

Vernal Falls

Our next hike on Day 2 was in the Valley. We hiked the busy and paved Mist Trail to the top of Vernal Falls (http://www.yosemitehikes.com/yosemite-valley/mist-trail/mist-trail.htm).  While the hike is only 3 miles round trip, it’s very steep (1,000 feet elevation in 1.5 miles). The waterfall is spectacular and we veered off the trail to get closer to really feel the mist. If you have more energy you can continue up another 2 miles (and another 1,000 feet) to the summit of Nevada Falls. But we decided to take it easy to rest up for our last and most extensive hike of the trip.

Admittedly I was nervous to hike Cloud’s Rest (http://www.yosemitehikes.com/tioga-road/clouds-rest/clouds-rest.htm) a 14.5 mile round trip hike that includes an intense mile of endless switchbacks and a ridge the width of sidewalk to the summit. The park ranger at the Visitor’s Center told us it was one of the top 3 hikes she’s ever completed. Despite being a bit scared and feeling unsure that I had enough endurance to make it, I totally rocked it and it was 100% worth it. The summit left us speechless. You end  at the East side of the valley with views of the entire valley including Half Dome, Yosemite Falls and even a bit of El Cap). Even with some hail on the hike down, it was an amazing hike!

Cloud’s Rest with Half Dome between my head and Keith’s head

The ridge to the summit of Cloud’s Rest

Some things to note: Yosemite Valley is much more touristy than Tuolumne Meadows. There are hotels, restaurants and pools. There’s even a bar where we watched the USA women’s team win the World Cup. There are lots of options for families and those that don’t want as much of an outdoorsy trip as we did. That being said don’t forget about the Meadows. They have much to offer and shouldn’t be missed.

I highly recommend spending time in Yosemite or at any national park. They are true treasures and everyone should enjoy what they have to offer. Next post I’ll fill you in on our time in Lake Tahoe and Portland.

Puerto Rico: A Spring Break Getaway

It’s been a long New York winter, as evidenced by the lack of recent blog posts (I promise with warmer weather, I’ll be more diligent!). We needed to escape the cold so we booked a trip to Puerto Rico. We chose PR because it was close, affordable, and had plenty of activities for my can’t sit on a beach for too long boyfriend and his easily sunburnt girlfriend.

The colorful streets of Old San Juan

A little history… Prior to European colonization, the volcanic island was inhabited by the Taino, a native tribe that called the land Boriquen. Christopher Columbus claimed the island for Spain on his second voyage to the New World in 1493. He originally named the island San Juan Bautista, after John the Baptist, and the town Puerto Rico, meaning “rich port”. They did not exchange names until 1521 when San Juan became the capital. Quickly the port became Spain’s most important military outpost as it served as a strategic point between Florida to the north and Mexico to the west. Puerto Rico remained under Spanish rule until 1898. The Treaty of Paris concluded the Spanish-American War and Spain was forced to cede Guam and Puerto Rico to the United States. To understand the relationship Puerto Rico currently has with the U.S. check out this link: http://www.topuertorico.org/government.shtml

Here’s what you need to know before you go:

• It’s a U.S. territory so no passport and no exchange of currency.
• Verizon will not work because there are no Verizon towers! I could not use my data while on the island unless I had a wireless connection. Good thing Brian has T-Mobile!
• Renting a car was a great idea. We had the freedom to get around the majority of the northeast quadrant of island and the roads were easy to drive. Having a car would eliminate steep transportation fees many of the tour companies will make you pay.

Coral Reef while snorkeling

We stayed 3 nights at the Wyndham Grand Rio Mar in Rio Grande  (http://www.wyndhamriomar.com/), about 45 minutes east of the airport. The resort was clean and family friendly, although food options were disappointing, expensive and service lacked. That being said the location was excellent as we could drive to all of our excursions easily and quickly. For the other 2 nights we stayed at an Airbnb (www.airbnb.com), our first experience with the apartment surfing website. We did our research, found an apartment that was located in our desired San Juan neighborhood (Condado), had great reviews and booked it. Our host was easy to communicate with and the apartment was exactly as described! It was a cheaper way to travel and we’ll definitely use Airbnb for vacations in the future.

Puerto Rico has no shortage of delicious food. We celebrated Brian’s birthday at Fern, a

The beautiful entrance to the Plantation House at the St. Regis

Jean Georges restaurant at the St. Regis Bahia Beach (http://www.fernrestaurant.com/bahia-beach-restaurant.php). The food and service were outstanding and they even had gluten free pizza and bread! You should try to get there when the sun is setting so that you can enjoy the ambience of the hotel and landscape. In San Juan we ate dinner at Casa Lola (http://casalolarestaurant.com/), a Roberto Trevino restaurant. They specialize in Puerto Rican cuisine and Brian was delighted to try mofongo, the island’s signature dish made from fried plantains. We also ate at Marmalade (http://www.marmaladepr.com/) in Old San Juan. We opted for the 5 course tasting menu and were not disappointed. In fact it was not only cost effective but everything we ate was delicious and inventive. It was an excellent meal. For breakfast check out the cheap and delicious Pinky’s (http://www.yelp.com/biz/pinkys-condado), and

Lunch at Kamoli with some cafe con leche.

for lunch check out the funky Kamoli Kafe (http://www.yelp.com/biz/kamoli-kafe-and-boutique-san-juan). And if you’re looking for a great artisanal cocktail bar, make your way to Old San Juan and pop into La Factoria (http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-factoria-san-juan). Mario, the bartender, is friendly and knowledgeable and most importantly the drinks were muy bien!

For Brian’s birthday we went snorkeling with Snorkel and Beach Tour on the S.S. Tobias (http://www.snorkelandbeachtour.com/). We drove to Fajardo and departed from Villa Marina. We made 3 stops off the coast of the island of Culebra, two of which we snorkeled at and enjoyed the fish and coral reef. You could rent waterproof cases for your smartphone that worked perfectly underwater and they served lunch and drinks on board. The final stop was Tortuga Beach on Little Culebra island, that was fun to explore and swim in the crystal clear water. I highly recommend the experience and this company.

Snorkeling at Culebra

We used a tour guide named Rupert Cosme, who was recommended to me by Louie’s VIP tours, for a full day El Yunque rainforest and biobay combination tour. I suggest you either use someone else or book the excursion on your own so that you can see what you want and enjoy the excursions at your leisure.

El Yunque (http://www.fs.usda.gov/elyunque) is the only tropical rain forest in the United

La Mina Falls

States Forest System. Because the island is volcanic, there are no indigenous species so you won’t be seeing any monkeys or snakes. However you will hear the call of the Coqui frog. You can absolutely drive to El Yunque and explore on your own. We hiked down to La Mina Falls and Brian braved the waterfall. We would have liked to climb the tower to get a 360 view but our tour guide didn’t take us. There are some places to eat along the road in the rainforest that have cheap local cuisine.

We spent a few hours at Luquillo Beach. It’s a very picturesque public beach without any hotels obscuring the view of the rainforest in the background.

Luquillo Beach

A highlight of our trip was kayaking in the bioluminescent bay. I’m not exactly sure which company we used since there are so many and Rupert, our tour guide, just signed us up for one. That being said, we spent about 20 minutes kayaking through mangroves in complete darkness trying to stay in single file, with only glow sticks on the bow and stern of each kayak as a guide. The crowds are unbelievable. Once you finally get to the bay, the stars above are awe inspiring and when you dip your paddle into the water it actually glows! The ecology of the bay includes plankton that emit a light when agitated at night. It’s more a sparkle than a glow but it’s spectacular. It’s pretty frustrating to paddle back with beginner kayakers who are trying to go against the current, however this excursion is not to be missed. Here’s a great article to learn more: http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/glow-flow-kayaking-eerie-bioluminescent-bays-puerto-rico-article-1.1126777

We spent a late afternoon and evening in Old San Juan. You can visit both Castillo de San Cristobal and Castillo San Felipe del Morro (http://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm). They are fun to explore and I recommend going at dusk as the crowds thin and the temperature drops. You can take a free trolley that runs throughout all of Old San Juan between the two forts. The history and views are worth the visit.

El Morro

San Cristobal

Puerto Rico was a wonderful island to visit and exactly what the doctor ordered…a little fun in the sun!

Southern Charm Part 2

After 3 days in Charleston, we jumped in the car and drove the 90 minutes from the Palmetto state to the Peach State. We began our time in Georgia in Savannah, a city I have been itching to visit for a long time. Generally, Savannah lived up to expectations, especially in the beauty department with the Spanish Moss practically dripping off the oaks. However, two days was plenty of time in the city since there’s not a ton of attractions and the food options didn’t wow us. Savannah is considered one of the most haunted cities in America and Brian begrudgingly missed out on a ghost tour because his girlfriend was admittedly too scared. Add a ghost tour onto my list below if you won’t have nightmares like I would. Here’s the skinny on our non-frightening time in Savannah:

Accomodations

The Brice: This recently opened Kimpton hotel was a 180 from our historic hotel in

Happy hour at The Brice

Charleston. We loved the decor and the good location but we were underwhelmed with the housekeeping and the lack of concierge help. The best part about staying at a Kimpton is the 5pm complimentary happy hour and, if the weather had been better, we would have loved to drink our wine in the inner courtyard. Bring a bathing suit for warm weather and enjoy your stay! http://www.bricehotel.com/

Food

The Olde Pink House: One of Savannah’s most famous and haunted establishments was a must do during our stay. The staff was very knowledgeable about the history of the house and the ghosts that still loom in the different rooms. Brian ate their signature crispy scoured flounder and the “BLT” salad which was featured on Food Network’s The Best Thing I Ever ate. He thought they were both very good although maybe did not live up to those superlatives. My shrimp and grits were delicious! Reservations can be hard to get but you can eat at the tavern downstairs, featuring a nightly piano player, or the side bar without planning ahead. You also have access to roam around the entire house after your meal. http://www.plantersinnsavannah.com/the-olde-pink-house/

The Olde Pink House is really pink!

J. Christophers: A good brunch joint that had a lot of omelette options. No reservations necessary and right in the middle of the city. http://www.jchristophers.com/

The Florence: As devoted Top Chef fans, I wanted us to try Hugh Acheson’s new digs in Savannah. I knew I’d have a hard time because it’s an Italian restaurant, but we were both underwhelmed with our meal. Brian liked his entree of cider glazed pork ribs, but the meatball starter was blah and his cannoli dessert, which the waitress claimed was her favorite, was so bad, with filling bordering on sour (like it had been sitting out for a couple hours), that it’s the only cannoli Brian has ever not finished. Our only disappointing meal of the trip. http://theflorencesavannah.com/

Back in the Day Bakery: Off the beaten track bakery that our friends from Atlanta told us we couldn’t leave Savannah without visiting. We got the last Star Brownie only 2 hours after the bakery opened, so go first thing in the morning to try every option on the menu. http://www.backinthedaybakery.com/

Savannah Dan

What to Do

Savannah Dan: If there’s anyone who embodies Savannah, it’s this tall man in a seersucker suit. He was hysterical and knowledgeable all at the same time. Dan took us through 6 of the 24 squares that are laid out proportionally throughout the city. He provided us with fun facts like that Georgia was originally a free state without any slavery and he pointed out that bench where Forrest Gump intoned that “Life is like a box of chocolates…” doesn’t even exist. There are so many tours to choose from but this is the one to go on! http://www.savannahdan.com/

We made it to all 24 squares!

 

 

 

 

Mercer Williams House: I read about half of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt and we watched the Clint Eastwood movie before we left, so we wanted to see the home that was the scene of the murder from the story. The tour was short and the guide highlighted all the amazing antiques that Jim Williams accumulated but we really wanted to hear about the murder and all the parties that he threw there. http://www.mercerhouse.com/

Spanish Moss

Bonaventure Cemetery: It’s a little bit of a drive out of the city and it probably would have been better for us if we had gone on a tour but it was still a spectacular place. We spent time in the Jewish section and then we wove our way through the historic section. Some of the gravestones were so ornate! The setting is beautiful, right on the water, but don’t expect to find the Bird Girl statue from the cover of Midnight; it has a new home in the Telfair Museum of Art. http://www.bonaventurehistorical.org/

From Savannah we drove the long and boring ride 4 hour ride to Atlanta. It was well worth it though because we were thrilled to spend New Year’s with the Friedmans and have them show us around their city.

Georgia Aquarium: Buy your tickets online ahead of time for a discounted price to America’s largest aquarium. This place is huge. We missed the dolphin show but Mike, Dayna, and their 3 year old Blake assured us that it was pretty impressive. It was amazing to see the whale sharks and manta rays because of their size and I loved seeing the Beluga whales. Definitely give yourself plenty of time to check out every exhibit and go either as soon as it’s opening or a couple hours before closing. You should grab lunch at The Varsity, the world’s largest drive-in restaurant and an Atlanta staple for the past 87 years! http://www.georgiaaquarium.org/

Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum: Well it’s really not a complete trip unless we can squeeze some presidential history in. Carter may not be the most interesting president, but his museum was very well done. We enjoyed watching the introductory video and I really appreciated learning about his early life and grassroots campaigning. The most informative exhibit was about the Camp David Accords which is certainly the highlight of his career as president. http://www.jimmycarterlibrary.gov/

 

 

 

 

 

And then we had to board a plane back to chilly NYC. Good times, good food and good friends made for an amazing Southeastern vacation. If this trip is any indication of the upcoming year, then 2015 is going to be wonderful.

Southern Charm Part 1

2014 ended on a high note with a trip down South to Charleston, Savannah and Atlanta. Brian wanted to try all the delicious food in Charleston, I wanted to learn about the history of Savannah and we were delighted to visit our friends Mike and Dayna in Atlanta to ring in the new year. Here’s a little bit about what we ate, explored and learned on the first part of our trip in South Carolina, the Palmetto State…

Accommodations

Francis Marion Hotel: A historic hotel centrally located on King Street- which is essentially the main drag of Charleston. Quite honestly I got a great deal on the price and it served its purpose- a jumping off point to see all the sights. It felt old but they were going through some renovations. http://www.francismarionhotel.com/

Food

Husk: A highlight of the trip and one of the main reasons we traveled to Charleston. Brian

My delicious Amberjack entree at Husk

went a little heavy on the pork but between my clam appetizer and amberjack main course, it was one of the best meals I had all year. The service was exemplary and the restaurant was beautiful. If you go to Charleston, this meal is a must and book it in advance! http://www.huskrestaurant.com/home/

Pearlz Oyster Bar: We wanted local seafood and local seafood we got. After walking all morning, we walked into Pearlz when the doors opened at 2pm and enjoyed large oysters from the Lowcountry. Hit the spot! http://www.pearlzoysterbar.com/

Pearlz Oyster Bar

Hominy Grill

F.I.G. (Food Is Good): A truly delicious meal that was perfectly cooked. I’ll quote Brian when he said that it was “the best gnocchi [he’s] ever had!” Lots of farm to table options that satiated our appetite from start to finish such as a chicken liver pate that knocked my socks off! http://eatatfig.com/

Hominy Grill: We walked completely off the beaten path and then waited 45 minutes for this southern brunch gem. From Brian’s Charleston Nasty Biscuit to my gluten free pancakes, this was the meal we were craving all trip long. While you wait, you can order hot and cold drinks from a take out window which is a nice treat. http://hominygrill.com/

The Macintosh: The burgers were rated some of the best in the city and we were glad to

Even this sometimes picky eater devoured it!

travel to upper King Street so that Brian could proclaim the best burger for $15 that he’s ever eaten (there were a lot of superlatives on the trip). We decided to be adventurous in our appetizer choice and went with an inventive charcuterie plate that included a grouper bologna. Jeni’s ice cream is right next door and, if you can stay up later than me, head upstairs to the bar, The Cocktail Club. http://themacintoshcharleston.com/

What to Do

Two Sisters Walking Tour: Mary Helen was amazing and walked us in and out of the historic streets of the Holy City. The city got its nickname because of the prominence of church steeples that rise above the low skyline. We learned about the beginning of the settlement, originally Charles Town, and its devastation after 587 days of attack during the Civil War. In the wake of, what the locals call, the War Between the States, Charleston rebuilt and they put strict architectural preservation laws in place. The informative and interesting tour took about 2 hours and we got to see Rainbow Row, the Battery and important sights like St. Michael’s Church. http://www.twosisterstours.com/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim: We went on a nice tour of America’s oldest continuously used synagogue. Established as a Sephardic Orthodox congregation in 1749, the Reform movement took root in 1843 and despite wars and hurricanes, the congregation survives

Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim

and grows to this day. It was nice for us to go to a Jewish house of worship of such historical significance. http://www.kkbe.org/

Fort Sumter: Make sure to buy tickets ahead of time for the ferry to Fort Sumter, birthplace of the Civil War. Round-trip it’ll take you about 2 hours and 15 minutes and that includes an hour on the actual fort. The ferry includes an audio recording of the history of the fort and highlights how about 100 Union soldiers on April 12, 1861 did their best to hold the fort in the Charleston harbor but ultimately surrendered to the Confederates, starting the Civil War. It’s a significant and unique part of our country’s history and the ferry ride back with the sunset and dolphins was the cherry on top! http://www.nps.gov/fosu/index.htm

Fort Sumter

Fort Sumter

 

 

 

 

 

Magnolia Plantation: Just 25 minutes north of Charleston is the historic Magnolia Plantation. Unfortunately we had a rainy day to visit the Plantation so we didn’t get to view the renowned gardens. The house tour was good and helped us better understand the Draytons, the family that owns the land, and if we had had a nicer day we would have spent more time in the gardens and exploring the slave quarters to learn more about the less discussed side of plantations. Make sure to check the website before you go to print out coupons for the various tours. http://www.magnoliaplantation.com/

 

What we didn’t get to see includes the Nathaniel Russell House and Halsey Institute. It also would be fun to take a trip out to the nearby islands to enjoy the beaches and outdoor adventures like kayaking and swamp boating at Cypress Gardens among the alligators. I would suggest skipping the City Market which is really just a crowded, overpriced flea market.

Ferry to Fort Sumter

Add Charleston to your list of must visit cities for many reasons but let me stress how wonderful the food was, how beautiful the city is and how much we enjoyed learning about the history of the Holy City. We’re so glad to have spent 3 days in Charleston and next time when we visit it’ll be in the warmer months to take advantage of all the Lowcountry has to offer. Part two takes us to Georgia, where we walked among the Spanish Moss of Savannah and drove around the urban sprawl of Atlanta to ring in the New Year!

Lake Placid Love

One of my favorite places on the planet is Lake Placid, New York. Nestled in the breathtaking Adirondack Park, Lake Placid is most famous for hosting the 1932 and 1980 winter Olympics. I love learning about the history upstate, so much so that my senior thesis at Barnard College was about Jewish Adirondack summer camps at the turn of 20th Century. If you want to learn more about the history of Lake Placid, check out this link: http://www.lakeplacid.com/do/history

As a tip of the hat to Ken Burns’ amazing PBS documentary, The Roosevelts: An Intimate Documentary (http://www.pbs.org/kenburns/films/the-roosevelts), did you know Teddy Roosevelt found out that President McKinley had died and that he would be succeeding him as president on top of Mount Marcy, the highest peak in the park?

The majority of my time spent upstate has been during the summer but last weekend I had the pleasure of visiting Lake Placid in the fall. Besides the fact that the weather was flawless, the trip was worth it simply for the foliage. Besides oohing and ahhing at the spectrum of colors on the trees, here’s what else we did:

We stayed at The Whiteface Lodge. It’s a little bit of a drive from the center of town (which is actually right on Mirror Lake) but it’s a wonderful hotel with well-appointed rooms, including kitchenettes  that are able to convey a rustic yet modern feel in the rooms. The views of Whiteface Mountain are spectacular and the grounds include an indoor/outdoor pool, lean-to’s to hang around in and bonfires to sit by and make s’mores. The breakfast each morning was hearty as well. http://www.thewhitefacelodge.com/

Friday night, Brian and I ate at the much buzzed about Chair 6. The food was very good but the ambiance is bizarre. It’s in a small house and while the menu seems plentiful, the majority of what we wanted to eat was sold out (by 7pm..hmmm) so we had to order the more expensive items off of the specials menu. I had heard so much about the restaurant and I’m happy we tried it but I probably won’t go back the next time I’m in town. http://chair6.com/

My dad and my brother are certified 46-er’s, which means they’ve climbed all 46 High Peaks in the Adirondacks. It also means that when the parking lot at the Adirondack Loj was filled we realized that climbing Phelps was not a possibility, my dad was quickly able to think of another great hike. We decided to climb up Round Mountain and after 2.3 miles we made it to the summit. It was the most amazing view of the Great Range. The real hero of the hike was my mom who reluctantly trekked all the way up and down just to spend time with us. She rocked it! For other great climbs, check out: http://www.lakeplacid.com/do/outdoors/summerfall/hiking/46-high-peaks 

Saturday night, we went to the Lake Placid Lodge for dinner. It is one of the premier resorts in the region and if you get there for sunset, grab a drink at the bar and relax by the lake. The dinner was long but delicious. The four courses were perfect Adirondack cuisine- fresh and delicious. http://www.lakeplacidlodge.com/

Sunday on our way back to the city we stopped at the Marcy Field farmer’s market in Keene Valley. If you stop, check out the stands for Asgaard Farms for some cheese (http://www.asgaardfarm.com/), Ausable Brewing Company for some beer (http://ausablebrewing.tumblr.com/) and Mase Chasm Farm for veggies and sandwiches (http://www.macechasmfarm.com/).  

For other fun activities to do and attractions to see, check out: http://images.data2gold.com/00411/latesummerattraction2014.pdf – I can vouch for the ski jump and the Adirondack Museum as great day activities.

Lake Placid always holds a special place in my heart. My parents started taking us up here when I was a young child. Then I spent my summers at sleep away camp in nearby Lake George and as an adult I continue to return to the scenery because it offers a respite from the busy city. I’m most myself among the peaks of the mountains, the blues of the lake and the plethora of stars at night.