It’s Mostly Sunny in Philadelphia

I lived in Philadelphia for 2 years, from 2011 to 2013, and I was inspired by the Eagles Super Bowl win to put together a list of some of my favorite places to eat and visit while in the City of Brotherly Love.

 

Me and Brian in front of the Philadelphia Museum of Art (Yes I highly recommend you run up the steps and throw your hands up like Rocky!)

 

 

Me and Rachel in front of the Barnes Foundation

I’ll primarily be writing about Center City which is where I lived and which is flanked by the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers. However, there are other great neighborhoods worth checking out when you’re in town.

 

Philadelphia was settled by the Quaker William Penn in the British colony of Pennsylvania. The other important man of the city is Benjamin Franklin. His lasting impact over Philly is felt everywhere- from his name on nearly every neighborhood, building and square and his forward-thinking ideas of starting the first American hospital, fire department and library to name a few. Philadelphia played a pivotal role in the Revolutionary War as it hosted both the First and Second Continental Congresses and then the Continental Convention as the Constitution was being written. The city was the temporary capital of the United States from 1790-1800.

 

Hanging with some of the Founding Fathers at the Constitution Center

 

 

My poppy, mom and brother in the National Museum of Jewish American History

 

Where to Eat

There are so many amazing places to eat in Philly and in the 5 years since I’ve lived there even more places have popped up. Here’s a list of a few that I loved when I lived there:

Vernick Food and Drink

Laura enjoying a hoagie at Reading Terminal

 

Zahav

Laurel

Will BYOB

Barbuzzo

Sampan

Federal Donuts

Amada

Tinto

Green Eggs

Sabrina’s

You’ll need to get a cheesesteak but I would actually recommend John’s Roast Pork for both their cheesesteak and their roast pork sandwich. Also, the pretzels in Philadelphia are amazing! Check out Reading Terminal if you want to try a variety of foods from delicious stalls.

Exploring the Betsy Ross home in Old City

Remy doing her best impression at the Rodin Museum

 

 

Where to Visit

Philadelphia Museum of Art

Barnes Foundation

Mural Arts Tour

Independence Hall and Liberty Bell

Keith in front of the Liberty Bell

Constitution Center

Betsy Ross House

Franklin Institute

Eastern State Penitentiary

Magic Gardens

National Museum of Jewish American History

Also if you have time check out one of my favorite stores, Open House, on 13th street which is one of my favorite streets in the city.

The best city blog I’ve ever read is Uwishunu. Before visiting Philly check it out to see what’s going on in all the neighborhoods in the city.

If you have a weekend and feel like taking a trip to Philadelphia, do it and enjoy every moment of history and food!

 

Que Te Vaya Bonito COLOMBIA 2

We took a short flight north from Bogota to Cartagena. Originally called Cartagena de India (to distinguish it as Cartagena in the West Indies rather than Cartagena in Spain), the city has a lot of personality and when we were there in December it was brutally hot. Cartagena is distinguished by the old city, surrounded by 11km of walls with squares dotted throughout the interior, and growing high rises outside the walls.

Where We Stayed

Sofitel Legend Santa Clara– Formerly a convent, the hotel is centrally located and full of historical details. The rooms are big, the pool area was great to relax by and they had gluten free bread at breakfast.  

Where to Eat

Don Juan– Delicious and a great vibe. La Vitrola- Cuban inspired cuisine and live music made this a must go to spot. Carmen– Asian inspired dishes. Alma– traditional Colombian cuisine. Monte Sacro– lunch spot that had fresh fish.

What We Did

Rosario Islands– The 60-minute motorboat ride to the islands was a breeze and it brought us to the Rosario Island archipelago. The 27 islands are protected by the Natural National Parks of Colombia and you have a plethora of activities to choose from. We opted to snorkel and enjoy the spectacular coral reefs. There’s a restaurant where we ate locally caught fish and then lounged by the beach. The boat ride back was not as smooth sailing as the trip over but I would suggest staying towards the back of the boat to handle the swells.

Castillo de San Felipe– It’s a bit of a hike up to the top of the fort but it’s worth it for the views. Due to Cartagena’s strategic location on the Caribbean Sea, the city built a fort in order to protect it from attacks. Did you know that Cartagena was attacked 11 times by pirates including Sir Francis Drake? You’ll see the Colombian flag in my photographs from the fort. We learned that the blue represents the water of the oceans that surround the country, yellow represents gold and the red represents the blood spilled for Colombian independence.

Convento de la Popa– You cannot walk up to the convent and instead must drive but you wouldn’t want to walk anyways since you really would be climbing up a mountain. You’ll get another spectacular view and learn about this beautiful convent. I particularly loved the interior courtyard with hanging gardens.

Church San Pedro Claver– After walking around the old city in the blazing heat, we walked into the Church and felt both a respite from the sun and tranquility from the city. The church is named after Saint Peter Claver who died in Cartagena and spent his life working with the slaves that were traded from Africa to the New World.

Palace of the Inquisition– The terrors of the Inquisition were not limited to Spain and Portugal in the 15th Century. In fact, the Court of the Holy Office carried out the work of the Inquisition until 1821 in Cartagena. Many innocent men and women were tortured and killed in the halls of what is a now a museum dedicated to their injustice.

We spent a morning walking through a local marketplace and this was the real deal. It was an eye-opening experience for me because there was every imaginable fruit, vegetable, and protein just out there in the open. Truthfully it was a little much for me but everyone else in my family really enjoyed walking through the stalls and picking out ingredients. We then had an unforgettable meal that we cooked with a local chef!

I highly recommend getting on a plane and heading to Colombia as soon as possible! It’s a wonderful country and I can’t wait to go back!

Los Angeles Vibes

A few years ago, Brian and I took an epic road trip from San Francisco, down the Pacific Coast Highway and which terminated in Los Angeles. (Click links to see blog posts from each part of our journey). Both our siblings live in L.A. so we have the opportunity to get to the City of Angels about once a year. Here are two great, although very different, activities we participated in with my brother and a list of a few others we’d like to do on future trips.

Getty Center

I originally visited the Getty Museum with my mom in 2004 so it was exciting to return with my husband and brother in 2016. It was as beautiful as I remembered it. The history of the center can be just as interesting to the visitor as the site itself. The space is a tribute to a billionaire’s love of art and architecture. As a perk, your visit is free as the Getty Trust always wanted the public to have access to the grounds (note, parking is not free).

 

The experience of getting to the museum is thrilling as you take a tram up to the property and your wonderment only builds as you get closer to the top. Truthfully, you could easily walk around aimlessly and completely enjoy yourself. We decided to take an architecture tour that lasted nearly an hour. We learned about the shapes and color that architect Richard Meier expertly chose and executed throughout the property. The guide also discussed the landscape architecture and how the buildings were placed purposefully to optimize views of the mountains and ocean. After the tour, we rambled through the interior museums and the exterior gardens. Put the Getty Center on your list, even if you have to drive to Brentwood to get there, and plan to spend a good 2-3 hours. Don’t worry they had a fairly decent cafeteria on premise.

Channel Islands National Park

I was thrilled to visit the Channel Islands as my eighth national park this fall. You need to book far in advance, because although the island is free to visit there is only one way to get there- by boat and the boat is very much not free. You’ll need to book on Island Packers to pick an island to visit. If you want to visit multiple islands (there are 8 total and 4 that the public can visit) then I suggest you plan to camp overnight. We chose to visit Santa Cruz as it was the closest and we only had the day. The boat ride takes approximately 1 hour and all reviews I read said that it’s a fairly calm trip and there are lots of opportunities to see wildlife. Unfortunately, we decided to visit the Channel Islands on what the boat crew called “one of the worst crossings they’ve ever had” meaning it was a wild ride both to and from Santa Cruz with swells easily reaching 10 feet. That being said this was highly atypical and I don’t want to scare anyone off from visiting. Just plan to bring some sort of anti-nausea medication, just in case, and sit in the back of the boat to minimize the rocking.

Once on the island, I had booked a kayak trip through Santa Barbara Adventure Company. However, the guides warned us that the trip would be difficult to a beginner kayaker so we opted to cancel our time at sea and hike instead. (The company was amazing and refunded us on the spot.) We chose to hike the 7.5-mile round trip route from Scorpion Beach to Smuggler’s Cove. The hike itself was moderate in difficulty but mostly because the wind was unrelenting. It was amazing to get to Smuggler’s Cove as it put us on the opposite side of Santa Cruz and we could see the other islands from a unique perspective. After hiking we checked out the small museums which gave an interesting history of the islands.

A highlight of visiting Santa Cruz is seeing the Channel Island fox. They are smaller than our woodland foxes and much more comfortable getting close to humans, so much so that you have to be careful they don’t nick your food right from your hand! We would have loved to be on the water to observe the sea life up close but we were happy to see a pod of dolphins on our wild boat ride. The takeaway from the Channel Islands is that I highly recommend going and I would even suggest camping out if you have the time. Just come prepared with a change of clothes, good shoes, and food since there’s nothing to buy once on land.

L.A. To Do List…

• The Broad Museum
• Nixon Presidential Library
• Los Angeles Conservatory Neighborhood Walking Tours

What else should we add to our list??

Debbie and Brooke Do Dallas

 

In front of my 8th Presidential Library- George W. Bush!

 

In true mama daughter tradition, we hopped on a plane in January 2016 for a long weekend and headed south to the Big D…Dallas, Texas! Dallas is the whole (Heidecorn) girls trip package- good food, good history and good shopping! You do not need to rent a car while visiting Dallas. Just use Uber!

Accommodations

We decided to be super chic and stay at The Joule. The location is perfect as a jumping off point to get to most destinations in the city. We found the rooms to be spacious and stylish however fashion was sometimes put before function as light switches were hard to find and electronics in the room were not intuitive to use. The hotel boasts a fabulous art collection worthy of a viewing. Across the street from the hotel is Dallas’ strangest and most voyeuristic art sculpture, The Giant Eye, which stares at you longingly while you enjoy breakfast at their in-hotel restaurant, CBD Provision. After snapping a photo with the sculpture, head next door If you want some high end shopping at Forty Five Ten.

Food

Filament– The restaurant has since closed (which is a bummer because it was our favorite meal) but I wanted to include it on the blog because it’s located in a great neighborhood with other noteworthy restaurants. Check out this list to find out where to eat in Deep Ellum.

Veracruz Cafe– While walking around the Bishop Art District we stumbled upon Veracruz and we had a most delicious meal. Traditional Mexican and Meso-American cuisine hit the spot for lunch! After lunch, we wandered the district that we heard had great shopping and art but, truthfully, we were underwhelmed.

Smoke– It’s in a random location and for some reason, the place was empty when we ate there. It was pretty good but we weren’t blown away. I’d eat at Knife, Top Chef alum John Tesar’s steakhouse, instead.

The Theodore– Our flight to New York got canceled so we got an extra night in Dallas. We decided to head to the infamous NorthPark Center to have dinner. The Theodore turned out to be delicious and I would highly recommend!

Things to Do

 

If it’s a beautiful day and you have some time to spare check out Klyde Warren Park. Think of it as Dallas’ version of NYC’s Highline.

 

Arts District Architecture Tour– This is the tour we had booked in advance and I’m happy we didn’t miss it! Our docent was fabulous and she pointed out the architecture that we surely would have missed if we had been rambling around the neighborhood. She also told us how the neighborhood was designated for the arts has transformed as the city blossomed.

George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum– Honestly, it was very strange to visit

Father, Son. Mother, Daughter.

my EIGHTH presidential library on Trump’s Inauguration Day. The museum wasn’t afraid to showcase uncomfortable moments during his presidency, such as the attacks of September 11th, nor did it sugarcoat some of his missteps, like those during Hurricane Katrina, and in doing so, I found the museum to have a lot of integrity. In fact, I believe it paid tribute to Bush in a way that allowed for me to respect him more than I previously had. I also found the museum to give insight into Bush as a person and First Lady Laura Bush’s education initiatives which were often overshadowed during his presidency. We enjoyed a yummy, albeit it pricey lunch, at the restaurant Cafe 43 since the museum is located on the SMU campus without many food options.

 

 

Ready to be sworn in. A replica of the Oval Office when Bush was in office is in the museum and it makes for a great photo op!

 

Nasher Sculpture Center– A spectacular museum of Raymond and Patsy Nasher’s private collection. The building is very manageable but the highlight is the sculpture garden out back which is filled with Picassos, Calders, and Serras, to name a few. Do not miss this museum and plan to spend some quality time.

The Sixth Floor Museum– Book your tickets ahead of time for this sobering museum which is located inside the former Texas School Book Depository and chronicles the assassination of President Kennedy. I highly recommend getting the audio guide. The museum does an excellent job giving you the history leading up to the assassination and what occurred afterward as well. You can even get a first-person point of view where assassin Lee Harvey Oswald shot from. After leaving the museum, walk along Dealey Plaza to see the “X” where Kennedy was shot and stand on the Grassy Knoll. You can walk about 5 minutes from the museum to the JFK Memorial.

Dallas Holocaust Museum– Though small, this museum was impactful and impressive. It didn’t take us long to wind our way through the exhibits but we were glad to support an important museum devoted to the victims of the Holocaust and the survivors that made their way to the Dallas area.

Perot Museum of Science and Nature– With our extra day in Dallas we decided to head over to this spectacular museum. It’s large and new, and although it caters to children we still had a great time checking out the exhibits on the solar system and prehistoric animals.

NorthPark Center– Truthfully, it’s not just a mall. Developed by Raymond Nasher (see Sculpture Center above) the mall was ahead of its time when it was built in 1965. While the shopping is great, the art collection is even better!

All in all, I would highly recommend Dallas as a long weekend getaway. My mom and I had a great time exploring and eating in true Big D fashion!

Southern Charm Remix Part 1

The blog is back! I’m back in the saddle and ready to fill you in on my adventures, from my perspective, both near and far. I haven’t spent the past two years living under a rock, so I plan to fill you in on some of my travels over the last 24 months.

Brian and I ended 2016 with a road trip from New Orleans to Atlanta. This post will be solely about the Nawlins part of our trip but stay tuned for more details about our road trip through Mississippi and Alabama.

Jackson Square named after President Jackson who led the U.S. to victory at the Battle of New Orleans

New Orleans

A little history…New Orleans defines the ultimate melting pot. Originally founded by the French, then ruled by the Spanish for approximately 40 years until President Jefferson signed the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 cementing Louisiana’s place in the United States. Due to its location as a port city from the Mississippi River to the Gulf of Mexico and its regime changes, New Orleans’ culture is unique. You’ll see it in the architecture throughout the neighborhoods, the sounds of music that waft through the air, the cuisine that you cannot find anywhere else and the people that you meet along the way.

Where to stay: New Orleans is a fairly large city, with many diverse neighborhoods. We chose to stay downtown in the Business District, as it is centrally located, next to the French Quarter but away from its crowded streets, and has an abundance of lodging options. We planned to visit many neighborhoods so easy access to the trolley was also a benefit.

 

On the famous streetcars along Charles Street

We stayed at The Intercontinental, as it was a good jumping off point and we got an excellent rate, including breakfast which made mornings easy. Ubers were readily available and we loved that the majority of our rides were in pickup trucks! I would recommend it as a no-frills place to rest your head at night. http://www.icneworleans.com/

 

Where to eat: New Orleans is chock full of amazing cuisine. My gluten-free diet limits me greatly in a city where beignets, po boys and muffalettas reign king (which reminds me to add King Cake to that list!). That being said we had no problem enjoying delicious meals in the Big Easy.

• Lilette: After our tour of the Garden District we were happy to sit down and enjoy a well-cooked meal. http://www.liletterestaurant.com/
• Commander’s Palace: A New Orleans institution with some old world flair, as men must wear collared shirts and a jacket. We went for dinner and the food was very good, but the right move is to actually go for lunch because the food is half the price and they feature 25 cent martinis! http://www.commanderspalace.com/
• Compere Lapin: We went for drinks and they were fabulous! It was a cool spot with wonderful bartenders, and you can stay for dinner.I just learned that it’s Top Chef Season 11 runner-up Nina Compton’s restaurant and wish we had the time to grab a seat. http://comperelapin.com/
• Shaya: Get the hummus with the soft boiled egg! It was the best hummus we’ve ever eaten and we’ve been to Israel! A delicious meal all around. http://www.shayarestaurant.com/ 

What to do: There are a ton of options but we were limited with our time. Also, Brian and I love rambling around new cities so we spent a lot of time walking around and just enjoying the sights!

Garden District Walking Tour: http://www.freetoursbyfoot.com/new-orleans-tours/

Residents of New Orleans bury their dead above ground because the city is below sea level. On our tour, we learned about the culture surrounding cemeteries in the city.

• We took the Garden Tour because it brought us to a very interesting part of the city, with architectural highlights. The tour included the Lafayette Cemetery and homes of several celebrities, including Sandra Bullock and, Brian’s personal favorite, Eli Manning’s childhood home. There were a lot of people on the tour which didn’t make it very personal but we got a lot of history for free! 

Manning family home

Audubon Park and Tulane: https://audubonnatureinstitute.org/audubon-park

• We took the streetcar out to Audobon Park which is located in the western part of the city. We only had time to see part of the expansive park, which includes a zoo and golf course. While in this part of the city we walked to Tulane to check out the beautiful campus. Don’t forget to look up while you walk through the quad to see Mardi Gras beads still hanging from the trees.

French Quarter 

French Quarter architecture at its finest

• What can I say? It’s nearly exactly as I expected. Crowded, hot and rowdy…even at 11am! It’s not my scene but we spent just enough time there to imagine what a college night in the city could look like.

National World War II Museum: https://www.nationalww2museum.org/

• The highlight of our trip. Plan to dedicate a lot of time here and expect crowds. There is so much to read and see that you simply can’t take it all in. It made me proud to be the granddaughter of two veterans who fought on the eastern and western fronts.

 

 

If we had visited in warmer weather we would have added a swamp tour to our itinerary. Also, wish we had time to visit the Chalmette Battlefield where the Battle of New Orleans was fought. Up next, New Orleans to Birmingham to Atlanta and some remarkable stops along the way.

Berkshires Blitz

After reading about the expansion of MASSMoCA in North Adams, Massachusetts, I knew a mini-art trek with one of my close friends was in order. After some quick planning to explore the Berkshires and all its cultural attractions, we headed out early one morning to conquer this corner of Massachusetts.

Clark Museum
Our first stop was the Clark Museum  in Williamstown, Mass. Easy, free parking right by the entrance, where rest rooms are easily accessible before you get into the museum were a welcome sight after our 2 ½ drive.  The Clark has a stunning new addition designed by Tadao Ando, an architect from Japan (more about him in my future Japan Blog). The new, serene welcome center houses special exhibitions, the ticket office, a great gift shop and cafeteria. Before going to any museum, I always check out their website for any tours scheduled; either for museum highlights or special exhibition tours.  We joined an hour long, free, docent led highlights tour of the renowned permanent private collection of Francine and Sterling Clark. A wide variety of art  – Impressionist, American painters, European works dating from 1300-1900, sculpture, silver and much more awaits you.  Don’t miss John Singer Sargent’s Fumee d’Ambre Gris which was voted fan favorite by patrons of the museum.  If you have time after your tour, visit the grounds of the Clark and the magnificent reflecting pools. In my opinion, museum cafeteria food tends to be above average and the Clark is no exception with an excellent selection, small bites as well as heartier entrees.  

MASSMoCA

A short 15 minute drive from Williamstown to North Adams, Mass gets you to the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (MASSMoCA) . Once a thriving mill town, North Adams had gone through many years of abandonment until the museum converted old warehouses into a sprawling contemporary art museum. MASSMoCA recently added an additional 120,000 square foot expansion.  Plan on lots of walking from building to building through a series of connecting tunnels.  There is a parking lot right at the museum but the overflow lot is about a block away.  You will easily hit your target fitness tracker here! Although MASSMoCA is not a collecting museum, they technically do not have a permanent collection, much of the art is on loan for 25-99 years. This voluminous space is perfect for  large scale installations from artists like Sol Lewitt, Louise Bourgeois and Anselm Keiffer. The James Turrell light exhibits are timed, so make your reservation online before you head to the museum. (Some temporary exhibits also have timed entries which need to be booked online ahead of time.) We conquered a large portion of the space in about 3 hours including a tour of the newest space.

Food and Accommodations

With aching feet and visions of the day’s art on our minds, we drove about 35 miles south for our overnight in Pittsfield.  The brand new Hotel on North, is right smack dab in the middle of the main drag in Pittsfield. This mundane office building from the exterior has been transformed into a funky, industrial, super comfortable hotel. There is a free self-park gated lot behind the hotel for guests. Our room was exceptionally large with 2 queen beds and a tremendous bathroom with a very cool tub. We dined at the restaurant in the hotel, called Eat on North, which features delicious American cuisine and a creative cocktail menu. They even provide turn-down service in the rooms and will give guests passes to the gym next door. The hotel is situated perfectly to take advantage of all the local performances offered in the area. In the morning we ventured south down the street for breakfast at a place called On A Roll. This tiny little cafe tucked away off the street in an office building serves an incredibly creative and yummy breakfast. Worth the walk and very inexpensive! Don’t miss the sweet potato hash and breakfast quesadilla.

Frelinghuysen Morris House & Studio
We hit the road at 9:30am, heading south towards Lenox for an unusual tour of the Frelinghuysen Morris House & Studio. GPS led us to this property tucked away off the main road. It’s about a 10 min walk on a lovely dirt road through the woods to the main house for our docent led tour. Suzy Frelinghuysen and George L.K. Morris were abstract painters and art collectors. They designed and built this unusual & fascinating home and working studio as a showcase to display their art among collected pieces from fellow artists. The tour ends with a mini art experiential lesson (you do not need to worry if you can’t draw, you can participate or not).

The Mount

Back in the car for a quick 10 min drive over to The Mount, Edith Wharton’s home in Lenox. From the parking lot meander through a trail of contemporary sculptures to arrive at the house which is quite a curious juxtaposition from the modern to the majestic architecture. Included in your admission are tours given several times during the day. Born into New York society, Wharton wasn’t afraid to use her intellect in a time when it was truly frowned upon. She designed and built the Mount in 1902, where she wrote some of her best works. Edith Wharton was the first woman to win the Pulitzer Prize for fiction. Fun fact: Edith loved doors and symmetry which are masterly reflected through the house. A delightful little outdoor cafe on the grand porch overlooking the property invites you to savor a meal and enjoy the perspectives of a century ago.

We snuck in one last quick stop in Stockbridge at the Schantz Contemporary Glass Gallery.  The entrance is literally right beyond a bank’s drive through window. Walk carefully and you will be rewarded as you enter with an amazing selection of world renowned glass artists. Quite a pleasant finish to our journey.

Next up as Ella Fitzgerald sang , “My Cousin in Milwaukee” !

Southern Charm Part 1

2014 ended on a high note with a trip down South to Charleston, Savannah and Atlanta. Brian wanted to try all the delicious food in Charleston, I wanted to learn about the history of Savannah and we were delighted to visit our friends Mike and Dayna in Atlanta to ring in the new year. Here’s a little bit about what we ate, explored and learned on the first part of our trip in South Carolina, the Palmetto State…

Accommodations

Francis Marion Hotel: A historic hotel centrally located on King Street- which is essentially the main drag of Charleston. Quite honestly I got a great deal on the price and it served its purpose- a jumping off point to see all the sights. It felt old but they were going through some renovations. http://www.francismarionhotel.com/

Food

Husk: A highlight of the trip and one of the main reasons we traveled to Charleston. Brian

My delicious Amberjack entree at Husk

went a little heavy on the pork but between my clam appetizer and amberjack main course, it was one of the best meals I had all year. The service was exemplary and the restaurant was beautiful. If you go to Charleston, this meal is a must and book it in advance! http://www.huskrestaurant.com/home/

Pearlz Oyster Bar: We wanted local seafood and local seafood we got. After walking all morning, we walked into Pearlz when the doors opened at 2pm and enjoyed large oysters from the Lowcountry. Hit the spot! http://www.pearlzoysterbar.com/

Pearlz Oyster Bar

Hominy Grill

F.I.G. (Food Is Good): A truly delicious meal that was perfectly cooked. I’ll quote Brian when he said that it was “the best gnocchi [he’s] ever had!” Lots of farm to table options that satiated our appetite from start to finish such as a chicken liver pate that knocked my socks off! http://eatatfig.com/

Hominy Grill: We walked completely off the beaten path and then waited 45 minutes for this southern brunch gem. From Brian’s Charleston Nasty Biscuit to my gluten free pancakes, this was the meal we were craving all trip long. While you wait, you can order hot and cold drinks from a take out window which is a nice treat. http://hominygrill.com/

The Macintosh: The burgers were rated some of the best in the city and we were glad to

Even this sometimes picky eater devoured it!

travel to upper King Street so that Brian could proclaim the best burger for $15 that he’s ever eaten (there were a lot of superlatives on the trip). We decided to be adventurous in our appetizer choice and went with an inventive charcuterie plate that included a grouper bologna. Jeni’s ice cream is right next door and, if you can stay up later than me, head upstairs to the bar, The Cocktail Club. http://themacintoshcharleston.com/

What to Do

Two Sisters Walking Tour: Mary Helen was amazing and walked us in and out of the historic streets of the Holy City. The city got its nickname because of the prominence of church steeples that rise above the low skyline. We learned about the beginning of the settlement, originally Charles Town, and its devastation after 587 days of attack during the Civil War. In the wake of, what the locals call, the War Between the States, Charleston rebuilt and they put strict architectural preservation laws in place. The informative and interesting tour took about 2 hours and we got to see Rainbow Row, the Battery and important sights like St. Michael’s Church. http://www.twosisterstours.com/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim: We went on a nice tour of America’s oldest continuously used synagogue. Established as a Sephardic Orthodox congregation in 1749, the Reform movement took root in 1843 and despite wars and hurricanes, the congregation survives

Kahal Kadosh Beth Elohim

and grows to this day. It was nice for us to go to a Jewish house of worship of such historical significance. http://www.kkbe.org/

Fort Sumter: Make sure to buy tickets ahead of time for the ferry to Fort Sumter, birthplace of the Civil War. Round-trip it’ll take you about 2 hours and 15 minutes and that includes an hour on the actual fort. The ferry includes an audio recording of the history of the fort and highlights how about 100 Union soldiers on April 12, 1861 did their best to hold the fort in the Charleston harbor but ultimately surrendered to the Confederates, starting the Civil War. It’s a significant and unique part of our country’s history and the ferry ride back with the sunset and dolphins was the cherry on top! http://www.nps.gov/fosu/index.htm

Fort Sumter

Fort Sumter

 

 

 

 

 

Magnolia Plantation: Just 25 minutes north of Charleston is the historic Magnolia Plantation. Unfortunately we had a rainy day to visit the Plantation so we didn’t get to view the renowned gardens. The house tour was good and helped us better understand the Draytons, the family that owns the land, and if we had had a nicer day we would have spent more time in the gardens and exploring the slave quarters to learn more about the less discussed side of plantations. Make sure to check the website before you go to print out coupons for the various tours. http://www.magnoliaplantation.com/

 

What we didn’t get to see includes the Nathaniel Russell House and Halsey Institute. It also would be fun to take a trip out to the nearby islands to enjoy the beaches and outdoor adventures like kayaking and swamp boating at Cypress Gardens among the alligators. I would suggest skipping the City Market which is really just a crowded, overpriced flea market.

Ferry to Fort Sumter

Add Charleston to your list of must visit cities for many reasons but let me stress how wonderful the food was, how beautiful the city is and how much we enjoyed learning about the history of the Holy City. We’re so glad to have spent 3 days in Charleston and next time when we visit it’ll be in the warmer months to take advantage of all the Lowcountry has to offer. Part two takes us to Georgia, where we walked among the Spanish Moss of Savannah and drove around the urban sprawl of Atlanta to ring in the New Year!