It’s Mostly Sunny in Philadelphia

I lived in Philadelphia for 2 years, from 2011 to 2013, and I was inspired by the Eagles Super Bowl win to put together a list of some of my favorite places to eat and visit while in the City of Brotherly Love.

 

Me and Brian in front of the Philadelphia Museum of Art (Yes I highly recommend you run up the steps and throw your hands up like Rocky!)

 

 

Me and Rachel in front of the Barnes Foundation

I’ll primarily be writing about Center City which is where I lived and which is flanked by the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers. However, there are other great neighborhoods worth checking out when you’re in town.

 

Philadelphia was settled by the Quaker William Penn in the British colony of Pennsylvania. The other important man of the city is Benjamin Franklin. His lasting impact over Philly is felt everywhere- from his name on nearly every neighborhood, building and square and his forward-thinking ideas of starting the first American hospital, fire department and library to name a few. Philadelphia played a pivotal role in the Revolutionary War as it hosted both the First and Second Continental Congresses and then the Continental Convention as the Constitution was being written. The city was the temporary capital of the United States from 1790-1800.

 

Hanging with some of the Founding Fathers at the Constitution Center

 

 

My poppy, mom and brother in the National Museum of Jewish American History

 

Where to Eat

There are so many amazing places to eat in Philly and in the 5 years since I’ve lived there even more places have popped up. Here’s a list of a few that I loved when I lived there:

Vernick Food and Drink

Laura enjoying a hoagie at Reading Terminal

 

Zahav

Laurel

Will BYOB

Barbuzzo

Sampan

Federal Donuts

Amada

Tinto

Green Eggs

Sabrina’s

You’ll need to get a cheesesteak but I would actually recommend John’s Roast Pork for both their cheesesteak and their roast pork sandwich. Also, the pretzels in Philadelphia are amazing! Check out Reading Terminal if you want to try a variety of foods from delicious stalls.

Exploring the Betsy Ross home in Old City

Remy doing her best impression at the Rodin Museum

 

 

Where to Visit

Philadelphia Museum of Art

Barnes Foundation

Mural Arts Tour

Independence Hall and Liberty Bell

Keith in front of the Liberty Bell

Constitution Center

Betsy Ross House

Franklin Institute

Eastern State Penitentiary

Magic Gardens

National Museum of Jewish American History

Also if you have time check out one of my favorite stores, Open House, on 13th street which is one of my favorite streets in the city.

The best city blog I’ve ever read is Uwishunu. Before visiting Philly check it out to see what’s going on in all the neighborhoods in the city.

If you have a weekend and feel like taking a trip to Philadelphia, do it and enjoy every moment of history and food!

 

Que Te Vaya Bonito COLOMBIA 2

We took a short flight north from Bogota to Cartagena. Originally called Cartagena de India (to distinguish it as Cartagena in the West Indies rather than Cartagena in Spain), the city has a lot of personality and when we were there in December it was brutally hot. Cartagena is distinguished by the old city, surrounded by 11km of walls with squares dotted throughout the interior, and growing high rises outside the walls.

Where We Stayed

Sofitel Legend Santa Clara– Formerly a convent, the hotel is centrally located and full of historical details. The rooms are big, the pool area was great to relax by and they had gluten free bread at breakfast.  

Where to Eat

Don Juan– Delicious and a great vibe. La Vitrola- Cuban inspired cuisine and live music made this a must go to spot. Carmen– Asian inspired dishes. Alma– traditional Colombian cuisine. Monte Sacro– lunch spot that had fresh fish.

What We Did

Rosario Islands– The 60-minute motorboat ride to the islands was a breeze and it brought us to the Rosario Island archipelago. The 27 islands are protected by the Natural National Parks of Colombia and you have a plethora of activities to choose from. We opted to snorkel and enjoy the spectacular coral reefs. There’s a restaurant where we ate locally caught fish and then lounged by the beach. The boat ride back was not as smooth sailing as the trip over but I would suggest staying towards the back of the boat to handle the swells.

Castillo de San Felipe– It’s a bit of a hike up to the top of the fort but it’s worth it for the views. Due to Cartagena’s strategic location on the Caribbean Sea, the city built a fort in order to protect it from attacks. Did you know that Cartagena was attacked 11 times by pirates including Sir Francis Drake? You’ll see the Colombian flag in my photographs from the fort. We learned that the blue represents the water of the oceans that surround the country, yellow represents gold and the red represents the blood spilled for Colombian independence.

Convento de la Popa– You cannot walk up to the convent and instead must drive but you wouldn’t want to walk anyways since you really would be climbing up a mountain. You’ll get another spectacular view and learn about this beautiful convent. I particularly loved the interior courtyard with hanging gardens.

Church San Pedro Claver– After walking around the old city in the blazing heat, we walked into the Church and felt both a respite from the sun and tranquility from the city. The church is named after Saint Peter Claver who died in Cartagena and spent his life working with the slaves that were traded from Africa to the New World.

Palace of the Inquisition– The terrors of the Inquisition were not limited to Spain and Portugal in the 15th Century. In fact, the Court of the Holy Office carried out the work of the Inquisition until 1821 in Cartagena. Many innocent men and women were tortured and killed in the halls of what is a now a museum dedicated to their injustice.

We spent a morning walking through a local marketplace and this was the real deal. It was an eye-opening experience for me because there was every imaginable fruit, vegetable, and protein just out there in the open. Truthfully it was a little much for me but everyone else in my family really enjoyed walking through the stalls and picking out ingredients. We then had an unforgettable meal that we cooked with a local chef!

I highly recommend getting on a plane and heading to Colombia as soon as possible! It’s a wonderful country and I can’t wait to go back!

Que Te Vaya Bonito COLOMBIA

My absolute favorite travel article was published this week- The New York Times’ 52 Places to Go. I thought it would be fun to share some past blog posts and create new ones based on the list’s recommendations. Check out my Instagram account @theprimarysource1 where I’ll repost previous destinations from the list that I’ve already blogged about. For now, here’s a rundown of my trip to Colombia in December 2015 which was ranked #2 on the list!

 

On the top of Monserrate with Bogota below

 

History

Start by watching Netflix’s hit show Narcos. It will give you a comprehensive understanding of how Pablo Escobar rose to power as a drug lord and how his influence dominated all aspects of life in Colombia- from the violence that arose on the streets to the turmoil he caused in government. Prior to Escobar’s rise, the country’s history begins with a culturally diverse indigenous population that was razed by Spain’s colonization of the land. In 1819 Simon Bolivar defeated the Spanish leading to the independence of the Republic of Gran Colombia which included Ecuador, Panama, and Venezuela in addition to Colombia. By 1903 the country’s borders became defined as we know it today. Pretty much all of the 20th century was riddled with violence throughout the nation as it dealt with a civil war and nationalist groups formed. However, in the past few years Colombia has experienced relative peace specifically in the cities we chose to visit and we felt safe as American tourists.

A Few Tips

• English is not readily spoken throughout the country. Learn some Spanish or be prepared with important phrases before you go.
• Keep toilet paper with you in your purse. Bathrooms are not always updated and sometimes you have to pay for toilet paper so just bring plenty along with you.
• Your trip can be affordable as airfare and restaurants tend to be much more reasonably priced than other tropical getaways (ie Miami and the islands in the Caribbean).
• We really did feel very safe, especially in Cartagena where I felt comfortable walking the streets on my own during the day. We took cabs in the evening.

Bogota

We took a JetBlue flight from NYC and connected through Miami to land in Bogota, the nation’s capital. The city is located in the Andes Mountains towards the interior of the country and we felt cooler temperatures in December. The graffiti in the city is a treasure unto itself and you can take a tour of the wall murals (see below for some of my favorites that my mom snapped during her tour of the city the day before we arrived).

Where We Stayed

Four Seasons Casa Medina– The hotel had just opened when we were there. The rooms were large and the hotel had a lot of character with Spanish colonial accents.

Where We Ate

El Son de Los Grillos– Local spot on a side street not far from Plaza Bolivar. A must try is

Ajiaco Soup

the famous Bogota ajiaco soup. It’s hearty and full of flavor.

Andre Carne de Res– A once in a lifetime experience. It’s at least a 60 minute drive out of town, but it will absolutely blow your mind. It’s been described as Alice In Wonderland meets Moulin Rouge but multiply that image in your mind by 1,000 and consider that the menu is 68 pages long and the restaurant itself is 2.76 square miles. Come hungry and thirsty and ready to dance. The pictures below really don’t do the space justice. Check out the link to have your mind blown.

What We Did

Museo Del Oro– Better known as The Gold Museum. I absolutely loved the history and artifacts in this museum because it highlighted the importance of the element not for wealth but for its spiritual importance. Salt, in fact, was considered much more valuable to the indigenous peoples of Colombia. You’ll see gold in many forms but my favorite was the Pachamama which is the spiritual embodiment of mother earth revered as the most important female deity.  

Museo De Botero– A must visit. Botero’s full-figured portraits are easily recognizable and the museum pays tribute to the Colombian born artist. For those living in New York, you’re likely familiar with his sculptures at the main entrance of the Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle. The museum also includes artwork from other notable artists and the space itself is quite beautiful.

Cerro Monserrate– We took the cable car up and the funicular down from the top of the mountain that overlooks the capital, at an elevation of 10,341 ft. We visited the Sanctuary that requires you to walk up a wide set of stairs with the many others making a pilgrimage to the holy sight. There is also a restaurant and bathrooms on the top. The best part was the views!

Mom a little scared of the funicular!

With my husband, dad and mom with the beautiful church on top of Monserrate in background

Next time I’ll continue this post with our second stop in Colombia- Cartagena!

Los Angeles Vibes

A few years ago, Brian and I took an epic road trip from San Francisco, down the Pacific Coast Highway and which terminated in Los Angeles. (Click links to see blog posts from each part of our journey). Both our siblings live in L.A. so we have the opportunity to get to the City of Angels about once a year. Here are two great, although very different, activities we participated in with my brother and a list of a few others we’d like to do on future trips.

Getty Center

I originally visited the Getty Museum with my mom in 2004 so it was exciting to return with my husband and brother in 2016. It was as beautiful as I remembered it. The history of the center can be just as interesting to the visitor as the site itself. The space is a tribute to a billionaire’s love of art and architecture. As a perk, your visit is free as the Getty Trust always wanted the public to have access to the grounds (note, parking is not free).

 

The experience of getting to the museum is thrilling as you take a tram up to the property and your wonderment only builds as you get closer to the top. Truthfully, you could easily walk around aimlessly and completely enjoy yourself. We decided to take an architecture tour that lasted nearly an hour. We learned about the shapes and color that architect Richard Meier expertly chose and executed throughout the property. The guide also discussed the landscape architecture and how the buildings were placed purposefully to optimize views of the mountains and ocean. After the tour, we rambled through the interior museums and the exterior gardens. Put the Getty Center on your list, even if you have to drive to Brentwood to get there, and plan to spend a good 2-3 hours. Don’t worry they had a fairly decent cafeteria on premise.

Channel Islands National Park

I was thrilled to visit the Channel Islands as my eighth national park this fall. You need to book far in advance, because although the island is free to visit there is only one way to get there- by boat and the boat is very much not free. You’ll need to book on Island Packers to pick an island to visit. If you want to visit multiple islands (there are 8 total and 4 that the public can visit) then I suggest you plan to camp overnight. We chose to visit Santa Cruz as it was the closest and we only had the day. The boat ride takes approximately 1 hour and all reviews I read said that it’s a fairly calm trip and there are lots of opportunities to see wildlife. Unfortunately, we decided to visit the Channel Islands on what the boat crew called “one of the worst crossings they’ve ever had” meaning it was a wild ride both to and from Santa Cruz with swells easily reaching 10 feet. That being said this was highly atypical and I don’t want to scare anyone off from visiting. Just plan to bring some sort of anti-nausea medication, just in case, and sit in the back of the boat to minimize the rocking.

Once on the island, I had booked a kayak trip through Santa Barbara Adventure Company. However, the guides warned us that the trip would be difficult to a beginner kayaker so we opted to cancel our time at sea and hike instead. (The company was amazing and refunded us on the spot.) We chose to hike the 7.5-mile round trip route from Scorpion Beach to Smuggler’s Cove. The hike itself was moderate in difficulty but mostly because the wind was unrelenting. It was amazing to get to Smuggler’s Cove as it put us on the opposite side of Santa Cruz and we could see the other islands from a unique perspective. After hiking we checked out the small museums which gave an interesting history of the islands.

A highlight of visiting Santa Cruz is seeing the Channel Island fox. They are smaller than our woodland foxes and much more comfortable getting close to humans, so much so that you have to be careful they don’t nick your food right from your hand! We would have loved to be on the water to observe the sea life up close but we were happy to see a pod of dolphins on our wild boat ride. The takeaway from the Channel Islands is that I highly recommend going and I would even suggest camping out if you have the time. Just come prepared with a change of clothes, good shoes, and food since there’s nothing to buy once on land.

L.A. To Do List…

• The Broad Museum
• Nixon Presidential Library
• Los Angeles Conservatory Neighborhood Walking Tours

What else should we add to our list??

When It’s Cold in NYC, Head to Your Nearest Museum

Last week I read this article in the New York Times and thought to myself, ‘Challenge Accepted’. I’m currently on a staycation during my 2017 December break so I figured I could tackle all 5 of the exhibits with the help of family and friends. Truthfully I was less than successful but it got me inspired to visit terrific museums in the city. Here’s some info on the exhibits I did make it to and others I would like to attend this year.

Metropolitan Museum of Art: Brian and I didn’t make it to the exhibit in the article, Leonardo to Matisse. Instead, we braved the snow and the early member hours to see the Michelangelo exhibit and the David Hockney show, which is exactly what the article warned not to do but we just couldn’t help ourselves.

Michelangelo, Divine Draftsman, and Designer: It is comprehensive, to say the least as it chronicles rarely seen drawings from the Renaissance man. My favorite room was the space where the Sistine Chapel ceiling was recreated and sketches were scattered about that corresponded to the figures above you. There was an overwhelming amount of information and our takeaway was that Michelangelo’s breadth of work is enormous but his influence even more so, as he made his mark in Italy that still exists today. I would highly recommend going to visit, however, try to go at an off time so that you are not stuck bobbing through an aggressive crowd and so that you can really dive into all the artwork and text that accompanies it.

David Hockney: The Hockney retrospective was fabulous. I only knew his swimming pool series so I was interested to learn about his other work and gain some insight into his creative process. I felt that the exhibit was curated spectacularly and the progression of the artwork helped to figuratively paint the picture of his life as he moved from England to L.A. I found the show to be more digestible than Michelangelo and I could spend quality time with the artwork that caught my eye rather than feeling rushed to move along. The exhibits are next to each other so they are easy to visit once you get through the maze of the Met.   

Bard Graduate Center  

John Lockwood Kipling:  My friend Ilana and I didn’t dare leave the upper west side on a frigid December day and instead decided to check out the Bard Graduate Center, a museum I’ve walked by for the past 5 years and always wondered what was inside. The Times review used descriptors such as “typically groundbreaking” and “expertly installed” so we went into the exhibit with little background knowledge but a lot of interest. It did not disappoint. We learned a great deal about Kipling, who I only knew to be Rudyard Kipling’s (of The Jungle Book fame) father. The exhibit was easy to digest both in size and content (only 3 floors which took us about an hour to peruse). We gained a greater appreciation for Indian arts and crafts and how the British, specifically Kipling, played a prominent role in both the refinement and exploitation of the native forms of art. Ilana and I both agreed that we’d love to come back for future exhibitions at this convenient and well-run art institution.

American Stock Exchange Building

Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton: You have to register ahead of time but the exhibit is free. My mom and I decided to take the guided tour and I’m glad we did because there was a lot to see. The exhibit is absolutely beautiful and it has traveled across the world before coming to New York. We learned a lot about the history of the brand specifically as the Vuitton trunk adapted to the changes in 20th-century travel. I particularly enjoyed seeing all the LV accessories that belonged to celebrities and debutantes and seeing the collaborations with present-day artists such as Damien Hirst. If the exhibit comes to your city or you can get downtown before it closes I highly recommend it.

Other exhibits I’d like to see this year:

New York Historical Society: Harry Potter A History of Magic

Guggenheim Museum: Giacometti

Whitney Museum: Andy Warhol

Debbie and Brooke Do Dallas

 

In front of my 8th Presidential Library- George W. Bush!

 

In true mama daughter tradition, we hopped on a plane in January 2016 for a long weekend and headed south to the Big D…Dallas, Texas! Dallas is the whole (Heidecorn) girls trip package- good food, good history and good shopping! You do not need to rent a car while visiting Dallas. Just use Uber!

Accommodations

We decided to be super chic and stay at The Joule. The location is perfect as a jumping off point to get to most destinations in the city. We found the rooms to be spacious and stylish however fashion was sometimes put before function as light switches were hard to find and electronics in the room were not intuitive to use. The hotel boasts a fabulous art collection worthy of a viewing. Across the street from the hotel is Dallas’ strangest and most voyeuristic art sculpture, The Giant Eye, which stares at you longingly while you enjoy breakfast at their in-hotel restaurant, CBD Provision. After snapping a photo with the sculpture, head next door If you want some high end shopping at Forty Five Ten.

Food

Filament– The restaurant has since closed (which is a bummer because it was our favorite meal) but I wanted to include it on the blog because it’s located in a great neighborhood with other noteworthy restaurants. Check out this list to find out where to eat in Deep Ellum.

Veracruz Cafe– While walking around the Bishop Art District we stumbled upon Veracruz and we had a most delicious meal. Traditional Mexican and Meso-American cuisine hit the spot for lunch! After lunch, we wandered the district that we heard had great shopping and art but, truthfully, we were underwhelmed.

Smoke– It’s in a random location and for some reason, the place was empty when we ate there. It was pretty good but we weren’t blown away. I’d eat at Knife, Top Chef alum John Tesar’s steakhouse, instead.

The Theodore– Our flight to New York got canceled so we got an extra night in Dallas. We decided to head to the infamous NorthPark Center to have dinner. The Theodore turned out to be delicious and I would highly recommend!

Things to Do

 

If it’s a beautiful day and you have some time to spare check out Klyde Warren Park. Think of it as Dallas’ version of NYC’s Highline.

 

Arts District Architecture Tour– This is the tour we had booked in advance and I’m happy we didn’t miss it! Our docent was fabulous and she pointed out the architecture that we surely would have missed if we had been rambling around the neighborhood. She also told us how the neighborhood was designated for the arts has transformed as the city blossomed.

George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum– Honestly, it was very strange to visit

Father, Son. Mother, Daughter.

my EIGHTH presidential library on Trump’s Inauguration Day. The museum wasn’t afraid to showcase uncomfortable moments during his presidency, such as the attacks of September 11th, nor did it sugarcoat some of his missteps, like those during Hurricane Katrina, and in doing so, I found the museum to have a lot of integrity. In fact, I believe it paid tribute to Bush in a way that allowed for me to respect him more than I previously had. I also found the museum to give insight into Bush as a person and First Lady Laura Bush’s education initiatives which were often overshadowed during his presidency. We enjoyed a yummy, albeit it pricey lunch, at the restaurant Cafe 43 since the museum is located on the SMU campus without many food options.

 

 

Ready to be sworn in. A replica of the Oval Office when Bush was in office is in the museum and it makes for a great photo op!

 

Nasher Sculpture Center– A spectacular museum of Raymond and Patsy Nasher’s private collection. The building is very manageable but the highlight is the sculpture garden out back which is filled with Picassos, Calders, and Serras, to name a few. Do not miss this museum and plan to spend some quality time.

The Sixth Floor Museum– Book your tickets ahead of time for this sobering museum which is located inside the former Texas School Book Depository and chronicles the assassination of President Kennedy. I highly recommend getting the audio guide. The museum does an excellent job giving you the history leading up to the assassination and what occurred afterward as well. You can even get a first-person point of view where assassin Lee Harvey Oswald shot from. After leaving the museum, walk along Dealey Plaza to see the “X” where Kennedy was shot and stand on the Grassy Knoll. You can walk about 5 minutes from the museum to the JFK Memorial.

Dallas Holocaust Museum– Though small, this museum was impactful and impressive. It didn’t take us long to wind our way through the exhibits but we were glad to support an important museum devoted to the victims of the Holocaust and the survivors that made their way to the Dallas area.

Perot Museum of Science and Nature– With our extra day in Dallas we decided to head over to this spectacular museum. It’s large and new, and although it caters to children we still had a great time checking out the exhibits on the solar system and prehistoric animals.

NorthPark Center– Truthfully, it’s not just a mall. Developed by Raymond Nasher (see Sculpture Center above) the mall was ahead of its time when it was built in 1965. While the shopping is great, the art collection is even better!

All in all, I would highly recommend Dallas as a long weekend getaway. My mom and I had a great time exploring and eating in true Big D fashion!

Southern Charm Remix Part 2

Brian and I love a good road trip. We were excited to plan out an interesting and educational route from New Orleans to Birmingham and then on to Atlanta. Our first idea was to drive up to Baton Rouge (so that I could sing the Garth Brooks song) then to Jackson (to then sing the Johnny Cash song) via the Natchez Trace, a road I’ve always wanted to drive because of its national significance. Check out this link to see what I’m talking about! This idea was quickly dismissed, however, because it was too long so it’ll go back on the future road trips list.

In front of the 16th Street Baptist Church which was bombed on September 15, 1963. Four little girls lost their lives. The church stands as a symbol of the strength of the Birmingham African American community as they rebuilt and stood strong in their fight for equal rights.

 

Instead, we chose to drive from New Orleans to Biloxi and then onto Birmingham. Turns out this is a much longer drive than anticipated. If we did it again we’d stay the night in Montgomery and visit the Rosa Parks Museum and then head to Birmingham. Here’s what the second half of our Southeast trip consisted of…

Biloxi, MS

I never thought I’d visit Biloxi. But I checked out Atlas Obscura and came across a truly bizarre discovery that I couldn’t pass up: The Jefferson Davis Presidential Library*. Please note the asterisk as Jefferson Davis was not a US President, rather the President of the Confederacy, but I figured that if I ever get to all the presidential libraries my list simply wouldn’t be complete without this addition.

Beauvoir is the estate where Davis lived out the rest of his days and was turned into

Statue of Jefferson Davis. The home overlooks the Gulf of Mexico and it was damaged by Hurricane Katrina. Restorations have been made. 

a museum dedicated to his life. We opted to take the tour and walk around the property a bit. The museum focuses on the history of the home and Davis’s life as leader of the Confederacy, including his penchant for camels in combat, while references to slavery are noticeably absent. The grounds also include a sort of petting zoo, and as we walked around the plantation we began to feel incredibly awkward and out of place as this landmark is devoted to celebrating a man who was an ardent racist and traitor. Although I’m happy I can mark it down on my list, I need not return.

 

Before getting back on the road, we decided to grab some grub, and although there weren’t a ton of options we found a good BBQ spot called, I kid you not, Slap Ya Momma’s BBQ. It put enough yum in our stomach for the 4-hour drive to Birmingham.

Birmingham, AL

I wish we had planned to spend more time in Birmingham. It is definitely an up and coming city with plenty to do, see and eat. Birmingham’s history begins post-Civil war as natural minerals, such as iron, coal, and limestone, were found and excavated from the earth in order to create steel. The city began to boom in size and population and by the mid-20th century, it became the epicenter of the civil rights movement.

Accommodations: Our stay at the Redmont Hotel was great. The hotel is a part of the Curio Collection of the Hilton brand which is their boutique line. Centrally located with simple rooms, this was a great spot for us. Breakfast came with the room at their restaurant Harvest and we saved some dough by parking in the lot across the street rather than through the hotel.

Food: We had one spectacular meal in Birmingham at Ovenbird. Food was delicious and drinks were equally as delectable.

What to do:

Birmingham Civil Rights Institute: The highlight of our trip. Before entering the museum, spend time in Kelly Ingram Park, the famous battleground of many important moments during the Civil Rights Movement. The park includes monuments that force the passerby to confront the truths of what occurred within a small green plot of land in the 1950’s and 60’s. Then plan to spend at minimum 3 hours walking through the museum and feeling an overwhelming amount of emotions as you pour through the first-hand accounts of civil rights leaders and participants. The museum sheds light on the hatred that existed, and sadly still exists, in our country and those that had the courage to stand up for what was right.

Sculptures that tell the horrifying but true story of events that occurred during the Civil Rights Movement right in this very spot

Vulcan Park and Museum: We decided to check out Birmingham’s resident protectorate

The 50 ton Vulcan statue! That’s me at the bottom of the photo!

and we were surprised with how much we enjoyed our time at this unique Birmingham monument. We walked to the top of the sculpture and got a wide sweeping view of the city. Then we went inside to the museum which told the history of Birmingham – specifically its boom as an iron town. An unexpectedly enjoyable attraction.

Because we spent so much time at the Civil Rights Institute we really didn’t have time for much else. Wish we could have checked out Sloss Furnaces (it was closed), Birmingham

Museum of Art or the Barber Motorsports Museum. Here’s a great list in case you find yourself with an extra day or two in Birmingham (50 Things to do in Birmingham).
We finished our road trip with a 2-hour drive to Atlanta, where we had a great time welcoming the New Year with the Friedmans and Tischlers, including a delicious tasting menu at Empire State South, Hugh Acheson’s Atlanta spot. Up next I’ll tell you about my trip with my mom to Dallas, TX!

 

Downtown Birmingham view from the top of Vulcan!

 

Southern Charm Remix Part 1

The blog is back! I’m back in the saddle and ready to fill you in on my adventures, from my perspective, both near and far. I haven’t spent the past two years living under a rock, so I plan to fill you in on some of my travels over the last 24 months.

Brian and I ended 2016 with a road trip from New Orleans to Atlanta. This post will be solely about the Nawlins part of our trip but stay tuned for more details about our road trip through Mississippi and Alabama.

Jackson Square named after President Jackson who led the U.S. to victory at the Battle of New Orleans

New Orleans

A little history…New Orleans defines the ultimate melting pot. Originally founded by the French, then ruled by the Spanish for approximately 40 years until President Jefferson signed the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 cementing Louisiana’s place in the United States. Due to its location as a port city from the Mississippi River to the Gulf of Mexico and its regime changes, New Orleans’ culture is unique. You’ll see it in the architecture throughout the neighborhoods, the sounds of music that waft through the air, the cuisine that you cannot find anywhere else and the people that you meet along the way.

Where to stay: New Orleans is a fairly large city, with many diverse neighborhoods. We chose to stay downtown in the Business District, as it is centrally located, next to the French Quarter but away from its crowded streets, and has an abundance of lodging options. We planned to visit many neighborhoods so easy access to the trolley was also a benefit.

 

On the famous streetcars along Charles Street

We stayed at The Intercontinental, as it was a good jumping off point and we got an excellent rate, including breakfast which made mornings easy. Ubers were readily available and we loved that the majority of our rides were in pickup trucks! I would recommend it as a no-frills place to rest your head at night. http://www.icneworleans.com/

 

Where to eat: New Orleans is chock full of amazing cuisine. My gluten-free diet limits me greatly in a city where beignets, po boys and muffalettas reign king (which reminds me to add King Cake to that list!). That being said we had no problem enjoying delicious meals in the Big Easy.

• Lilette: After our tour of the Garden District we were happy to sit down and enjoy a well-cooked meal. http://www.liletterestaurant.com/
• Commander’s Palace: A New Orleans institution with some old world flair, as men must wear collared shirts and a jacket. We went for dinner and the food was very good, but the right move is to actually go for lunch because the food is half the price and they feature 25 cent martinis! http://www.commanderspalace.com/
• Compere Lapin: We went for drinks and they were fabulous! It was a cool spot with wonderful bartenders, and you can stay for dinner.I just learned that it’s Top Chef Season 11 runner-up Nina Compton’s restaurant and wish we had the time to grab a seat. http://comperelapin.com/
• Shaya: Get the hummus with the soft boiled egg! It was the best hummus we’ve ever eaten and we’ve been to Israel! A delicious meal all around. http://www.shayarestaurant.com/ 

What to do: There are a ton of options but we were limited with our time. Also, Brian and I love rambling around new cities so we spent a lot of time walking around and just enjoying the sights!

Garden District Walking Tour: http://www.freetoursbyfoot.com/new-orleans-tours/

Residents of New Orleans bury their dead above ground because the city is below sea level. On our tour, we learned about the culture surrounding cemeteries in the city.

• We took the Garden Tour because it brought us to a very interesting part of the city, with architectural highlights. The tour included the Lafayette Cemetery and homes of several celebrities, including Sandra Bullock and, Brian’s personal favorite, Eli Manning’s childhood home. There were a lot of people on the tour which didn’t make it very personal but we got a lot of history for free! 

Manning family home

Audubon Park and Tulane: https://audubonnatureinstitute.org/audubon-park

• We took the streetcar out to Audobon Park which is located in the western part of the city. We only had time to see part of the expansive park, which includes a zoo and golf course. While in this part of the city we walked to Tulane to check out the beautiful campus. Don’t forget to look up while you walk through the quad to see Mardi Gras beads still hanging from the trees.

French Quarter 

French Quarter architecture at its finest

• What can I say? It’s nearly exactly as I expected. Crowded, hot and rowdy…even at 11am! It’s not my scene but we spent just enough time there to imagine what a college night in the city could look like.

National World War II Museum: https://www.nationalww2museum.org/

• The highlight of our trip. Plan to dedicate a lot of time here and expect crowds. There is so much to read and see that you simply can’t take it all in. It made me proud to be the granddaughter of two veterans who fought on the eastern and western fronts.

 

 

If we had visited in warmer weather we would have added a swamp tour to our itinerary. Also, wish we had time to visit the Chalmette Battlefield where the Battle of New Orleans was fought. Up next, New Orleans to Birmingham to Atlanta and some remarkable stops along the way.

Berkshires Blitz

After reading about the expansion of MASSMoCA in North Adams, Massachusetts, I knew a mini-art trek with one of my close friends was in order. After some quick planning to explore the Berkshires and all its cultural attractions, we headed out early one morning to conquer this corner of Massachusetts.

Clark Museum
Our first stop was the Clark Museum  in Williamstown, Mass. Easy, free parking right by the entrance, where rest rooms are easily accessible before you get into the museum were a welcome sight after our 2 ½ drive.  The Clark has a stunning new addition designed by Tadao Ando, an architect from Japan (more about him in my future Japan Blog). The new, serene welcome center houses special exhibitions, the ticket office, a great gift shop and cafeteria. Before going to any museum, I always check out their website for any tours scheduled; either for museum highlights or special exhibition tours.  We joined an hour long, free, docent led highlights tour of the renowned permanent private collection of Francine and Sterling Clark. A wide variety of art  – Impressionist, American painters, European works dating from 1300-1900, sculpture, silver and much more awaits you.  Don’t miss John Singer Sargent’s Fumee d’Ambre Gris which was voted fan favorite by patrons of the museum.  If you have time after your tour, visit the grounds of the Clark and the magnificent reflecting pools. In my opinion, museum cafeteria food tends to be above average and the Clark is no exception with an excellent selection, small bites as well as heartier entrees.  

MASSMoCA

A short 15 minute drive from Williamstown to North Adams, Mass gets you to the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (MASSMoCA) . Once a thriving mill town, North Adams had gone through many years of abandonment until the museum converted old warehouses into a sprawling contemporary art museum. MASSMoCA recently added an additional 120,000 square foot expansion.  Plan on lots of walking from building to building through a series of connecting tunnels.  There is a parking lot right at the museum but the overflow lot is about a block away.  You will easily hit your target fitness tracker here! Although MASSMoCA is not a collecting museum, they technically do not have a permanent collection, much of the art is on loan for 25-99 years. This voluminous space is perfect for  large scale installations from artists like Sol Lewitt, Louise Bourgeois and Anselm Keiffer. The James Turrell light exhibits are timed, so make your reservation online before you head to the museum. (Some temporary exhibits also have timed entries which need to be booked online ahead of time.) We conquered a large portion of the space in about 3 hours including a tour of the newest space.

Food and Accommodations

With aching feet and visions of the day’s art on our minds, we drove about 35 miles south for our overnight in Pittsfield.  The brand new Hotel on North, is right smack dab in the middle of the main drag in Pittsfield. This mundane office building from the exterior has been transformed into a funky, industrial, super comfortable hotel. There is a free self-park gated lot behind the hotel for guests. Our room was exceptionally large with 2 queen beds and a tremendous bathroom with a very cool tub. We dined at the restaurant in the hotel, called Eat on North, which features delicious American cuisine and a creative cocktail menu. They even provide turn-down service in the rooms and will give guests passes to the gym next door. The hotel is situated perfectly to take advantage of all the local performances offered in the area. In the morning we ventured south down the street for breakfast at a place called On A Roll. This tiny little cafe tucked away off the street in an office building serves an incredibly creative and yummy breakfast. Worth the walk and very inexpensive! Don’t miss the sweet potato hash and breakfast quesadilla.

Frelinghuysen Morris House & Studio
We hit the road at 9:30am, heading south towards Lenox for an unusual tour of the Frelinghuysen Morris House & Studio. GPS led us to this property tucked away off the main road. It’s about a 10 min walk on a lovely dirt road through the woods to the main house for our docent led tour. Suzy Frelinghuysen and George L.K. Morris were abstract painters and art collectors. They designed and built this unusual & fascinating home and working studio as a showcase to display their art among collected pieces from fellow artists. The tour ends with a mini art experiential lesson (you do not need to worry if you can’t draw, you can participate or not).

The Mount

Back in the car for a quick 10 min drive over to The Mount, Edith Wharton’s home in Lenox. From the parking lot meander through a trail of contemporary sculptures to arrive at the house which is quite a curious juxtaposition from the modern to the majestic architecture. Included in your admission are tours given several times during the day. Born into New York society, Wharton wasn’t afraid to use her intellect in a time when it was truly frowned upon. She designed and built the Mount in 1902, where she wrote some of her best works. Edith Wharton was the first woman to win the Pulitzer Prize for fiction. Fun fact: Edith loved doors and symmetry which are masterly reflected through the house. A delightful little outdoor cafe on the grand porch overlooking the property invites you to savor a meal and enjoy the perspectives of a century ago.

We snuck in one last quick stop in Stockbridge at the Schantz Contemporary Glass Gallery.  The entrance is literally right beyond a bank’s drive through window. Walk carefully and you will be rewarded as you enter with an amazing selection of world renowned glass artists. Quite a pleasant finish to our journey.

Next up as Ella Fitzgerald sang , “My Cousin in Milwaukee” !

Where in the world is FOGO Island?

Fogo Island is the largest inhabited island off the Northeastern coast of Newfoundland and getting there from New York requires several flights, a ferry ride and a couple of hours by car, so plan on an entire day of travel. With the new ferry boats, service is no longer suspended due to weather or icebergs. In fact, the ferry ride was a highlight of the long journey as we cracked  and sliced through icebergs (www.tw.gov.nl.ca/ferryservices/schedules/c_fogo.html).    We broke up the trip on our there by stopping in St John’s for 2 nights and one full day of touring.

View from Ferry

Fogo  Island was inhabited over 400 years ago by French and Irish settlers who left their homeland seeking a better life. Then came the Portuguese who sought the rich fishing grounds and named the island Fogo, meaning Fire in Portuguese.  Once the cod fishing capital of the world, the waters were over fished and the Canadian government imposed very strict fishing regulations which devastated the island’s economy in the 1950’s. Along came native Zita Cobb, a multi-millionaire who wanted to return her homeland back to economic health and foster what she called “cultural resiliency”. Through the Shorefast Foundation, which she began with her brother (and self-funded), she wished to make Fogo Island an international destination for the Arts. Two of the main initiatives of the foundation were first to build six artist studios where artists in residence can work and live, and second to build an Inn to attract tourists, all designed by Norway-based architect Todd Saunders.

As you drive up towards the Inn the striking white contemporary building is an unexpected sight against the backdrop of Fogo’s remote and stark landscape sparsely dotted with bright colored clapboard homes. The staff greeted us like family and provided an overview of the Inn’s activities, dining schedule etc. The orientation tour of the island offered by the Inn is a MUST to get the most out of your stay and is a led by a local. www.fogoislandinn.ca 

View of FOGO ISLAND INN from water

Good to know:

• There are only a handful of places to eat outside of the Inn.  While Nicole’s is a wonderful option and a short walk from the Inn, it is only open May through September (www.nicolescafe.ca).  Plan on taking your meals at the Inn, which uses locally sourced ingredients.
• Ask for iceberg ice in your cocktail.
• If you feel deprived without a TV, the Inn will gladly put one in your room (we watched the icebergs float by instead from our bed).
• Leave the Louboutin’s at home! Pack a good pair of hiking/walking shoes and lots of layers for outdoor activities including a hat. Casual is king here. The Inn does provide foul weather gear if needed.
• If you want to explore the island yourself, the Inn will loan you a car from their fleet of over 20 SUV’s.
• Catch one of the films in their in house theater – although there is a schedule of show times, you can request a private showing. Grab your popcorn, candy or take your cocktail with you!!
• Save room after dinner for S’mores outside on the craggy rocks.
• Favorite complimentary indulgence: the Daybreak basket delivered daily to your door with coffee/tea, local berry juice and fresh warm baked muffins.  Breakfast in bed before breakfast!! (gluten free is available)

FUN FACT – Canada’s Flat Earth Society is located on Fogo.  They believe that a massive rock on the island is one of the 4 corners of the earth!

We spent 4 full days on Fogo Island taking full advantage of the many guided hikes, fishing trips, biking, nature walks, boat tour of icebergs, use the sauna facilities and finally visiting the architecturally stunning 6 artist studios. Plan on visiting the Fogo Island furniture shop where all the furniture in the Inn is crafted and also sold. Then cross the street to the Artist co-op to pick up a beautiful handmade quilt like the ones found on your bed in all the rooms.

Most importantly, take in the beauty and serenity of this unspoiled island. Go see Come From Away on Broadway to begin to understand the hospitality of the natives of Newfoundland  – Fogo Inn will provide the UGLY Stick entertainment!

Up Next… Art Trek to the Berkshires!